Spetses and Yerakas

Spetses is quite unique and different from all the other Greek islands that we have visited. Whether it was the two grounded water tankers at the entrance to the harbour that serve as a wave break; or the incredibly crowded and chaotic anchoring docks and bays, we were not sure. Nevertheless we knew it was different. It has a naval history similar to Hydra, and participated in the Greek war of Independence. The island has only the one town with a population of around 4,000. No automobiles are allowed on the island, but unfortunately, motorbikes and quads are, so tourists are zooming everywhere on these hell machines.

Two grounded water tankers serve as a wave break

Pavlov, doing her sardine imitation.

We first tried to find a berth in Baltiza Creek, a very popular destination. We found the most incredible confusion of fishing craft, mega-luxury cruisers and other riff raff stacked to the rafters. We could hardly turn Pavlov around (and I can turn her pretty much in her own length). We retreated to the outer harbour, and squeezed into the fuel dock.

The outer harbour at Spetses

View over boat yard and outer harbour

The chaotic inner harbour

The ferry berth

Another view of those stranded water tankers.

Spetses is unique perhaps, in that although its rather run down and chaotic, it appeals to the mega rich. Super wealthy Athenians come down in fantastic yachts and mega-cruisers, to slum it with the hoi poloi. There are no cruise ships or package holiday tours on Spetses. To cater for this demographic, the island features many upmarket restaurants and boutique hotels.

Taverna on the beach

Boutique hotel

Seafront boulevard

Seaside villas

Small beach

Because of the ban on cars, horses provide transport. Rather than the donkeys used in Hydra, the horses here tow small buggies.

Transport, Spetses style

Trotting, anyone?

Megan on the boulevarde

We enjoyed 4 days in Spetses, partially due to helping a family in the yacht next to us. The husband managed to dislocate his shoulder while sleeping. After trying to reduce the dislocation (and causing agony), medical assistance was sought. Eventually, a water taxi took the poor man to the mainland, where a physiotherapist was able to pop the joint back in place. We minded Jan and Jitka's young daughter, Ella, while all this occurred.

This is actually a trendy restaurant built into an old boatbuilding shed.

Looks like a town hall, but its a luxury hotel.

Old funky buildings everywhere

 Part of Spetses claim to military fame was the commander Boubalina, the much celebrated female captain in the Greek war of Independence.

Boubalina, Spetses claim to military fame.

We then headed off to Yerakas. Poros, Hydra and Spetses are very much on the Athenian tourist route, and are all connected to Pireus by high speed ferry. However, as soon as we left Spetses, the actual isolation of the Southern Peleponnes became apparent. Yerakas is located in a fjord that connects an inland lake with the sea. Definite snugglepot potential.

Pavlov on the dock at Yerakas 

The main (and only) street of Yerakas.

You can see from the photo that we tied up in front of one of the 3 tavernas in Yerakas. Strange co-incidence, this taverna belongs to close relations of Dora, a friend of Megan's back in Australia. We sent a photo of the couple running the restaurant back to Dora, who was thrilled.

Nektarina and husband, taverna owners.

Megan and 'the look'.

Simple living in Yerakas.

The fjord runs back to an idyllic lake. We love places like this, where we have no cares about the boat, we are free from tourist 'grockle', and can just wander about as we please. Heaven!

The one road of Yerakas

The fjord opens into a lake

The lake behind Yerakas

Quiet beauty.

Rustic dwellings

We're getting deeper into the Peleponnese and away from the charter boats and tourists. I love the hidden places of Greece, and we're getting deep into that territory.