Monday 28 November 2016

Pavlov is Sold

Its strange how events unfold, and how life is suddenly very different. Last Christmas when visiting Australia, we went to our house that we had tenanted out, and I realised that I never really wanted to mow those lawns again. We have almost 2 acres of land and maintaining all the trees and gardens is a big job. I looked at the block and at our efforts to ameliorate the effects of 4 years of tenanting on our landscaped back yard, and said 'Never again'. So we put the house on the market, thinking it might take several years to sell. (This next set of photos are from a trip we took to Aix-au-Provence, near Marseille).


Museums in Aix-au-Provence.



Central square in Aix-au-Provence



A typical French green grocer


Well, it sold just after we left Australia, and we realised that we didn't want to leave that cash sitting in the bank. It meant we needed to return to Australia and either buy or build a house. So, about 9 months ago, we started to think about putting Pavlov on the hard for a year while we returned to Australia to build a house. Sophie, Megan's daughter had tragically lost her first child that Christmas, so there was no urgency to leave the Med long term. We thought we'd return to Pavlov and take her through the canals and river systems to the UK, where, some years hence, we thought we'd sell her. However, I hated the thought of Pavlov sitting unused for a year while we faffed around in Australia. Boats just die if they aren't continually in use, the boat yards of the world are littered with neglected boats dying a slow and ugly death due to owners being elsewhere engaged. (These next photos are from a trip to LeStaque).



Roasting meats at a LeStaque market



LeStaque limestone cliffs




A Lestaque church


So, I thought, lets put Pavlov on the market while she is on the hard. If she sells, well and good, but if she doesn't, then we can take her up the canals when we return. Now boats in the Med can take a very long time to sell. There are an enormous number of boats for sale very cheap due to the large charter fleets operating here. Pavlov is rather a specialised deep ocean-going boat, and would only appeal to a discerning and knowledgeable owner who knew what she represented, rather than all the 'plastic fantastic' ex-charter yachts being sold for ridiculously cheap prices. So I fully expected her to take years to sell, and I thought we'd be back to continue our journey. (The next photos are from a trip to Nimes).


Interesting gee-gaws in a Nimes shop



Courtyard in Nimes



Not sure of the symbolism of the crocodile, maybe they make shoes from them.



Roman Amphitheatre in Nimes



The palisades of the amphitheatre



Nimes town hall



A very french cafe


So I place an ad in Apollo Duck, a popular boat selling site in the UK, and had several enquires from lots of tyre-kickers, who all wanted lots of photo's and questions answered, but nothing came of it. I also placed an ad in the free service provided by Dick MaClary on his web-site 'The Sailboat Cruiser'. We had an enquiry about Pavlov from an Polish sailor, whom we'll call B, currently living in Austria from this ad. B. flew down to Marseille just to look at the boat, but because our weather window to sail to Port Napoleon was closing, we had to leave the day of his visit to get to the Port in reasonable weather. So we offered B. a trip to Port Napoleon, hoping that he could get back to the airport at the end of our sail. He grabbed the opportunity, and had a blast of a sail over to Port Napoleon in 25knot winds. It was a great advertisement for Pavlov, because she was in her element. We had to reef and shake out a few times, and point hard into the wind to get there. Pavvie just flew, and I could tell from the glint in B's eye's that he was hooked. (The next set of photos come from a trip to Lyon).



Lyonese square



Bellecour square in Lyon, with the church on the hill overlooking



These things seem to be sprouting like mushrooms.



Taking the funicular up to the church on the hill



La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourviere 



Inside the Basilique



Highly decorative ceiling



Stunning mosaic art work

Very Norman lines to the Basilique

Anyway, after the usual dicking around with surveys, contracts and hard bargaining, a deal was made, and Pavlov now has a new owner. We can't quite elieve that she sold so quickly, but we always knew that Pavlov was a special boat, and would find a special new owner. The new owner will be flying me back in June next year to help prep the boat and sail it to Monfalcone (near Trieste in Italy) where she will initially be berthed. We really wish the new owner B all the best with Pavlov, and we know that he has acquired a wonderful cruising boat, which served as our home for the last 5 years. So, having fulfilled all our boat preparations, Megan and I were free to travel around France. We visited Aix-au-Provence, Nimes, Arles and Lyon. We also met up with our good friends Eric and Hanifer in LeStaque where they berth their boat Kairos. 


View from the Basilique over Lyon



Panorama of Lyon



Megan snapping in the old quarter



Lyon is filled with elegant buildings like this

We spent a delightful hour in the Museum of Fine Arts in Lyon, and wallowed in some of our favourite Impressionist artists.



I think this one is a Renoir, but I'm not sure



One of my favourite Monet's



Forget who painted this, but I love it.



Nave Nave Mahina byPaul  Gauguin 



The Lovers by Rodin



A Picasso



Couldn't fit the whole painting in the frame, but I just love this



Another example of Lyonese architecture

What's next? Well, we are in the delightful and slightly anxiety-provoking state of not really knowing. Megan's daughter had a second child, also 10 weeks premature, in November. Megan made a rushed trip back to Australia to spend a few weeks with Sophie, while I got on with the job of selling the boat. We're both happy to report that Isobel is doing very well, although is still in hospital. So grand-parenting is high on the list, as is building or buying our new home. We're thinking of living in Newcastle, about 160 km north of Sydney. This is a good compromise for both Megan, wanting to commute to Sydney, and me, needing to care for my mother in Ballina, 900 km to the north. Only time will tell what our next adventure will be, but now we must put the Pavlov chapter to bed. Bon Soir indeed!




Saturday 12 November 2016

About in Arles

While we've been languishing on the hard at Port Napoleon, we meet a pair of fellow languishers (or rigging a-waiters) in the marina. Dave and Carol had travelled down the canals and the Rhone, and were waiting for some new rigging before heading off on a grand adventure in the Med. Craftily, they rented a car, and even better, took us off for a few adventures. The first was a trip to Arles. We've seen a lot of coastal towns and cities in the south of France, but haven't been able to venture inland much. Arles is about 20 nm inland, and was quite unique compared to what we've seen. Also, it boasted one of the largest markets we've seen since Turkey.



Crossing over the Rhone at Arles



Carol and Megan promenading alone the river



Look at that!



Market crowds



Fancy some paella?



Or how about an olive?



Fresh cocquillages (shell fish)

We enjoyed the teeming market place, particularly the food stalls. It also boasted some lovely
architecture, so just strolling around its streets and squares was a pleasant past-time.



A Baroque church



A small park and square in the centre of Arles



Arles civic square



An interesting doorway



Megan going native!


We then headed out of Arles and to the place that gave bauxite its name. Baux au Provence is a town close to Arles in the Bouche du Rhone department. Baux means 'rocky spur' in French, and bauxite was discovered and so named here in 1821. Just outside the town is a quarry where white limestone was extracted for many years. The empty white caverns have been converted into a most unusual 'art gallery' where works of art are projected onto the walls. The show is called 'Carrieres de Lumieres' and we saw the show devoted to Marc Chagall. It was a powerful and immersive experience that placed us 'inside' the works of Chagall.



Dave and Carol in Baux-au-provence



The limestone cliffs containing the quarries




Entrance to 'Carrieres de Lumieres' 



Inside the caverns



Marc Chagall exhibition



Totally immersive experience



Each epoch of the artist was covered



Caverns sans 'art'

There was also a show devoted to Alice in Wonderland and C.S. Carroll, as well as a wacky art film by Jacques Costeau.


Alice in Wonderland show



Wonderfully evocative of the novel



Not a literal re-telling, but using symbols from the book



A disappearing Cheshire grin



Some more of the caverns



Jacques Costeau movie



The commentary warned us not to try and understand what the film was about!


We had a wonderful trip, thanks Dave and Carol! Back to Port Saint Louis and the tasks of preparing Pavlov for sale.