Wednesday 27 July 2016

Able was I ...

Of course, the famous palindrome indicates that we are in Elba. We crossed from Bastia in Corsica to Golfo del Campo in Elba. It was good to be back in Italy after the high prices of Corsica.


Evening in our anchorage in Marina di Campo, Elba



Corso in Marina di Campo



... the streets have no name...



Beautiful beach in Elba


After sampling the beach life in Campo, we headed up the Elba coast, trying for Porto Azzura. The wind was up and this anchorage looked nasty, with a steep swell rolling straight in, so we kept going around the island and ended up in Portoferraio, the main port and capital of Elba.



Spit, Megan and the main port of Portoferraio



Boulevard of Portoferraio

Elegant buildings in Elba, Italiante style

A wicker-work Mini, only in Italy

Portoferraio was a delightful town, with steep winding lanes and a different style of architecture to the mainland. It was the site of Napoleon's exile. We visited Napoleon's home, the Palazzina del 
Mulini.



Italiante style buildings



Part of the Fortress complex



Bonaparte's mail box



Exterior of Napoleon's palace



Palace drawing room, quite austere comparatively 



The bed of the great man



Belonged to Bonaparte's sister



Napoleon's camp bed



Palace gardens

The most appealing feature of Elba though, was the natural beauty of the island. It is heavily wooded with steep pine covered cliffs that plunge to the sea.


An Elban beach cafe 



Overlooking Portoferraio




The port and surrounding bay



Entrance to the port



Walking the cliffs

We tried to leave Portoferraio and head back to the Italian coast, but when we got there, it was unsheltered and quite ugly, so we promptly sailed back to Elba, and went into Porto Azzurro, the port we missed out last time. Now it was sheltered, and apart from a close encounter with an underwater wreck which required a diver to free our anchor, it proved to also be a delightful spot.






Sunday 24 July 2016

Crossing to Corsica

Viva la Francais! Here was an opportunity to get a sneak preview of France, just a few miles from our location in northern Sardinia. Unfortunately, the 'Bouche de Bonifacio', the straits of Bonifacio lay between us and Corsica. These straits funnel the prevailing westerlies between the two mountainous islands, and often double the windspeed. In addition, there are lots of reefs and rock outcroppings, so the crossing is rightly feared, attested by the large number of sunken vessels in the vicinity. We waited for a weather window and had a calm crossing. 




A Sardinian Hobbit community



Our last Sardinian anchorage



The Bonafacio Straits, unseasonably calm




Islands and reefs in the Straits

It was off our route, but we'd heard that Port Bonafacio was something not to be missed, so we diverted for a drive-by. The port is located in a narrow gorge in the bluff limestone cliffs of southern Corsica. It was indeed spectacular.



The cliffs of Bonafacio



The port entrance is a small slit in the cliffs



We followed the ferry in ...



... turned the corner and there is the port!
 


Town falling down the cliffs



Bonifacio yacht harbour

Our bank manager wouldn't authorise a loan big enough to cover the docking fees for a night in Bonafacio, so after a swift sortie up the harbour, we turned tail and headed back out again, to head for  Porto Vecchio.



Looking to seaward from the harbour



The limestone cliffs of Bonifacio


There was a mistral wind forecast (that's a wind from the NW, usually quite strong, around 30 knots), so we spent some time trying to find a secure anchorage in Porto Vecchio. That achieved, we tendered ashore to explore the old town above Porto Vecchio.



Walled town above Porto Vecchio



Church tower



Stone architecture


 
View from the old town.

From Porto Vecchio, we had to transit up the east coast of Corsica. There are few anchorages on this coast, and the marina's charge exorbitant fees, so we had to spend a few rolly nights anchoring off beaches as we made our way up the coast. Luckily we had settled weather and had no issues, but we certainly rocked our world for a few nights.



Anchoring off the beach at Solenzara



Umbrella, Pavlov and Megan 



Spit goes to the beach


Our last port of call in Corsica was the delightful town of Bastia. We actually splurged on a marina here, as we were getting low on water and needed to do the laundry. Bastia was an interesting warren of a town and we enjoyed wandering around and exploring this French outpost.



Port entrance in Bastia



Town looms above the port



Pavlov on the quay in Bastia



Another church



French cafes



Photogenic port



Moonrise over the port entrance 



Town and port






Moon and Megan



Old town above the port



another obligatory


Mr Dribbles


Just for the composition

So that was Corsica for us. It was a quite wild island, sparsely inhabited, but if we had our time again, I would cruise the west coast, just watching the weather. The east coast is not particularly distinguished between Bonifacio and Bastia. However, those ports did make up for the other long stretches. Next, able was I ere I saw Elba!