Friday 27 November 2015

Agrigento's allure

Agrigento is a city on the southern coast of Sicily, and is the capital of this province. It was also the site of the ancient Greek city of Akragas around 400 BC. It's an easy bus ride from Licata, and a great historical site, so off we went.


Beautiful ceramic coat of arms



A Fascist style Post Office, remnants of Mussolini



Stylish railway station


Agrigento is perched on high hills looking over the sea, so there are wonderful views down to the coast.



Looking down to the coast from Agrigento



Typical streets



Church named after Pirandello, a famous novelist from Agrigento



Baroque entrance to a church ...



... which had a start white interior



... some famous Italian master's art work



... very floral baroque ornamentation



... and an amazing tromp l'oeil dome ceiling, which is actually flat. The columns are painted on



... altar



... and the price of sinning!


Being a capital city of the region, there was more affluence in Agrigento than Licata, and it lacked the 'grittiness' of Licata that we've come to love. But it had great shops, clean streets and fascinating nooks and crannies. We loved wandering around the town, and will return there again.



Sicilian pastries



Civic center



This building is the local theatre



A brass map of Agrigento



Beautiful wrought iron balconies from around 1400 BC



Washing day.



Local fruit seller. This bag was then attached to a line that was hoisted up several stories. Italian home delivery!



Looking inland from Agrigento.


A few kilometres from Agrigento is the Valley of the Temples, a Greek archeological site that features seven temples in the Doric style. This is a world heritage site, but it felt strangely abandoned and unremarkable, even though the temples are stunning.



Walking the way that connects all the temples



The Temple of Concordia




Side view of the Temple of Concordia



A modern bronze of the Fall of Icarus



The Temple of Heracles



View back to Agrigento from the site



A panorama of the view from the archeological site


Winter has arrived with a vengeance, with 30 - 40 knot winds and occasional rain. This has curtailed our wandering a bit. The temperature has plummeted, but we'll be heading back to Australia on the 8th December, for our second summer for this year. Life is hard!! See you back in Oz.






Saturday 14 November 2015

Seeing Sicily

Feeling somewhat marina-bound, with all the internecine plots of small community living, we decided to get out and about and see something of Sicily. We offed early and caught the bus to Catania, where we could rent a car for 4 nights. First stop was Giardini, on the east coast of Sicily, north of Catania.


Giardino sea scape, this is the entrance to the port!


Megan at Porto Giardini


Typical sea-side Sicilian town


... with an honorary life boat


... and a typical small church.

From Giardini, we headed north to Taormina. We had planned to anchor off Taormina when we crossed the Straits of Messina, but a sudden squall decided otherwise, so we fled downwind to a safe port at Augusta, and missed this cliff-top village. So visit it by car we did.


The anchorage below Taormina.


Fabulous view up the coast


Taormina fruit stall


Then we headed inland, around the lower slopes of Mt. Etna, a live volcano. We ended up staying at a  B&B at Randazzo.


Mt Etna from B&B in Randazzo at night


Mt Etna, roadside view.


Hill top village view 


Gives an idea of the topology ... view from a roadside cafe.


Our roadside cafe ... on the way to Palermo


Just a few donkeys.

Italians drive with the same reckless abandon as they sing and (supposedly) make love. After 2 days of battling these crazy drivers on twisty steep mountain roads, we decided to chill out in the Sicilian capital, Palermo, for a few days. Palermo was an absolute delight, the architecture was thrilling and monumental, the small dark back alley's were suitably Sicilian and the food was great. We loved the Teatro Massimo, the classical concert hall in the old part of town, Palermo.


Lion guarding the Teatro Massimo 


The Teatro Massimo, the concert hall in Palermo


Army band playing on the steps.


The Teatro Massimo


Outdoor facade of the Teatro.


We adored the architecture and sculpture on the streets of Palermo, typified by the piazza called the 'Four Corners'.


One of the 'Four Corners'


Fountain detail


Beautiful light posts


Another corner with light post.


There were some pretty spectacular churches as well in Palermo.



Spanish Moor flavour to this church


Courtyard of the church 


Main entrance


Ceiling fresco


Glorious architecture

Palermo has its dark and shady side, best exemplified by the markets. They are in the Balaro district and date from the period of Arab Saracen rule, so they resemble an arabic souq.



Street market in Balaro


Fruit seller


Fish market


Street stalls


Palermo park


Old town gate

From Palermo, we headed to Piazza Amerina and visited the Villa Romana del Casale archeological site. This site preserves a wealthy Sicilian villa with some of the best preserved mosaics from the Roman era, about 2 - 3rd century AD.


Old wall of the  Villa


Hunting scenes in a room



This sequence from the Great Hall represents the capture and export of wild animals to Rome.


Famous ' Bikini Ladies' mosaic


Doorway to the 'Bikini' room


Robed figure on the left is purported to be the Patrone of the villa


External shelter for the mosaics recreates the outlines of the villa


A water feature Nympharium in one room


Furnaces for the baths


Outdoor urns


The long pool, one of 3 groups of baths


Megan with column.


Finally, we travelled to Enna, an inland cliff top village. There is little to remember the Fascist rule in Italy under Mussolini, but we spotted a plaque on the town hall, where the dedication to Benito Mussolini had been chiselled off, with only the darker outline remaining. The views from these cliff-top villages are stunning and truly panoramic.


Looking from Enna to another cliff-top village


Piazza in front of the cliff view


Enna fountain


Panoramic view from Enna


Civic square built in the Art Deco Fascist style


The plaque on the town hall. You can still see the dedication to Benito Mussolini, even thought its been chiselled off.

Fantastic trip, you can see why we love Sicily. Till then, Arrivederci!