Wednesday 6 March 2013

Anchor's Aweigh


The weather has turned a corner in Fethiye. The pulse is quickening with spring around the corner. It seems to wake up the town, activity is returning to the streets, the storekeepers and stall vendors are painting and making neat, stocking the shelves. The 'Season' is about to start, and everywhere, people are preparing.

On Pavlov, we've been infected with the same fever. We're ready to take down the winter tent and open up our little world to the outside. The chain and anchor have been re-galvanised.


Pavlov's winter tent.

Megan, erstwhile First Mate and Admiral Below Decks, has a particular and fervoured relationship with the anchoring system. She owns that sucker, is she-devil boss of it. Anyway, she's been training the anchor chain into colourful submission, so that it will now tell her faithfully the depth of anchor deployed.

Megan's depth scheme
Chain boss and First Lord Admiral

The saloon cushions have all been re-upholstered, new mattresses fitted to the front and rear  berths.



New Lounge
The mast has been taken down so that all the standing rigging and much of the electrical wiring in the mast can be replaced. It was an excited crew that tied Pavlov up to the main dock so that we could bring in a crane to do the take-down.

Preparing for lift off!
Our rigging crew.

Look what I can lift!

Down she goes

Ready to be re-rigged.


The naked Pavlov

We've also fitted some new creature comforts inside. LED TV (wired up to the computer network) with a nifty arm so we can swing it out of the way.

Pavlov's new media centre.

Our list is about done (at least for now, but there is a new list waiting in the wings!!) . We have a pretty long string of guests visiting this year, starting with Michelle in mid-April. That means some new linen and work to make the boat look really ship shape. 

Everyone's 'appy when the admiral is 'appy.

The new sails arrive next week, so after they're fitted and commissioned, we'll probably take a sea trial down to Gorkova Roads, a fascinating anchorage about 100nm down the Turkish coast.

Life is good.



Saturday 2 March 2013

When in Rome...

To escape our winter confinement, we decided to take a quick flit to Rome. We booked a very cheap flight direct from Dalaman to Rome and stayed for 10 days.  Here's a whirlwind sample.


Megan in Tardis, our friendly lift box
We found a great hotel (Hotel PABA on Via Cavour, if you're in the area) for E 48 per night, right next to the Forum.
Part of the Forum from the outside


The Colosseum was just down the lane.

No need for a title.



... but you could feel the power of old Rome.

We walked for miles and miles (in fact, I wore out my feet, they became quite damaged), just gob-smacked with the richness of history's tapestry here.


Inside the Forum

Viaduct on Palantine hill

However, there's a point where this richness becomes over the top, just too much for the senses to accomodate. The next photo is from the ceiling of the corridor leading into the Sistine Chapel.

Ceiling detail from the corridor to the Sistine Chapel

Great art, you might think, but how do you deal with each individual work of art when it's in the context of this:

Corridor to the Sistine Chapel
How can you assimilate and appreciate each work when your eye is just overwhelmed by the sheer amount of art. We visited amazing churches and museums which seemed to compete to be the most lavish and overwrought.



Pantheon ceiling
Megan with the angels in St Peter's



Vatican art collection

Vatican ceiling
It came to a head when we walked through an unremarkable and drab door off a small piazza, to be confronted with an overwhelmingly beautiful church. We saw a poster advising us of a Michaelangelo sculpture, and we almost didn't bother to walk the length of the abbey to see it. We'd OD'ed on beauty. Well, we forced ourselves, it's terrible to treat Michaelangelo in such a cavalier fashion.

Michael Angelo's 'Christ carrying the cross'

We learned how to operate the roman buses and metro, and our 7 day pass saw very heavy use. To clear our overloaded senses, we took a trip out to Ostia Antica, the original port city of Rome.

Amphitheatre at Ostica Antica
Bathhouse mosaic at Ostica Antica

Mussolini planned a utopian city, EUR ( Esposizione Universale Roma),  to commemorate 20 years of Fascism and to portray the glory of Rome. We were astonished by the grandiosity and pomposity of the architecture, vainglorious beyond comprehension.

Front door to the EUR museum, must be 100' high

Covered walkway of the museum
Everything in Rome seems larger than life, huge, in the realm of the immortals. Even this foot!

A bit toey in Rome
Of course, the view from the top of St Peter's is just breath taking, the Trevi fountain defies simple description, and the sheer scale of the monumental architecture threatens to sink Rome to its pre-civilized foundations.

View from the top of St Peter's cathedral

Trevi Fountain - Bernini

Vittoria monument - stupendo
We loved Rome, it was stupendous, breath-taking and romantic. But in the end, it was like going to a 'Death by Chocolate' restaurant; good things in moderation can become nauseating when overblown. Rome felt indulgent, too much, over the top.

It was all an impossible trick...

Indian levitators in the Corso

But we did our best to imbibe, because when in Rome...

When in Rome... do as the romans.