Poros and Hydra - The Peleponnese

To end our Lavrio blues, we set sail for Poros. This was a pleasant jaunt across the Saronic Gulf; Poros is on the south side of the gulf.

Our anchorage at Yeroslimani

Another view of our snugglepot.

 We anchored in a very pleasant snugglepot, Yeroslimani, north of Russian Bay on our first night. This was a delightfully sleepy and well-sheltered bay, where we swam over and met a great English couple, Jamie and Jamie, with their two daughters, Thomi and Lottie. Poros is a small island very close to the mainland. It is separated by a narrow and very busy channel. We watched the boats passing by our little cove, and couldn't believe their frequency! It was just like Pitt Street (admitted, a very parochial Australian reference!).

First view of Poros town

The channel separating Poros from the mainland is very picturesque, and is lined with mansions and villa's. The water traffic was incredible, with hydrofoils, big ferries, luxury cruisers and yachts streaming everywhere.

Docks on the north-west side of Poros town.

This ferry became our dock mother.

Pavlov on the dock at Poros town

We spent the next day wandering around the streets of Poros. It's a tourist town, mainly visited by wealthy Athenians.

Main street of Poros

Town square

Close to Poros is the island of Hydra (Greeks pronounce it Iydra). Hydra was very important as a naval base during the Greek war for Independence. It was the first island to throw its naval resources into the Greek national movement, in opposition to the Ottomans. We wanted to visit Hydra, but had heard horror stories of trying to anchor in its tiny harbour. It has fierce traffic movements into a tiny harbour that can turn into a washing machine, and whose bottom is fouled by all sorts of chain, mooring lines and garbage. Discretion being the better part of valour, we elected to leave Pav at her secure mooring in Poros, and catch the hydrofoil to Hydra, a half-hour journey.

Our ride to Hydra, a speed express hydrofoil.

Docking at Hydra

The chaotic port of Hydra.

Instead of Pavlov's stately 6 knots under power, the hydrofoil conveyed us at 35 knots. Hydra lost its power and influence after the war, when its naval resources were shut down. It only picked up its popularity when it was adopted by artists and 'the beautiful people' in the 50's and 60's. Now, a fleet of catamarans and hydrofoils convey Athenians to its beaches and cafe's. Leonard Cohen still has a house on the island.

This water carrier is Hydra's water supply.

Naval fortifications, shall we take the shot?

Andrew Miaoulos, an Admiral in the Greek war of Independence.

Megan on the old naval fortifications

Lateral mark with cannons for enforcement!

Arriving catamaran.

Hydra is very much a cafe society now, the main entertainment is to sit at cafes under large covered  tarpaulins that provide some shade from the crippling heat. From the cafes, you can watch the chaos and unfolding drama in the harbour, one of our favourite sports.

Hydra cafe

This one's an ouzeri. 

Everyone is watching the harbour, this yacht has snagged its anchor on the foul bottom.

Little water taxi's flit about at high speed.

The heat in the middle of the day was pretty over-powering. The very stones have baked all day, and by mid afternoon, they just radiate heat. Everyone seeks the shade and coolness at this time of day. We call it the 'dead zone', from about 1pm to 6pm. No-one is moving on the streets, everyone is lying in the shade or taking it easy. We joined them, and took refuge from our wandering at one of the many cafes.

A pair of Hydriots, remember the Greeks pronounce the H as an I.

I'm sure we can fit another boat in there!

Another view of the harbour.

Rubbish trucks are the only vehicle allowed on the island, all other motorised transport is forbidden by law. This has elevated the humble donkey to the status of prime mover on the island.

Donkey with handler

The taxi rank for donkeys

Not just for the tourists.

Hand carts also transport good from the dock

Goods handling, Hydra style.

When the heat had abated a little, and we were capable of continuing, we strolled around the foreshores of Hydra.

Naval fortifications

Donkey delivery

A popular bathing spot, complete with swim in cave.

Looking south to the Peleponnese.

That Mediterranean blue!

Megan at a delightful hilltop terrace.

When it was time to depart, we strolled back to the port to catch our ride, this time a large catamaran. We were glad that we'd avoided the harbour, we saw at least 2 boats with snagged anchors. One  boat was trapped in the centre of a very busy port for over an hour. I felt a great deal of empathy for the skipper, there but for the grace of randomness go I.....

Our original Idriot, donkey driver

Our ride back home to Poros

Where to next?