Saturday 23 August 2014

Down south, Kalamata way

We're taking our time rounding the three capes of the Southern Peleponnese.  After leaving Yithio, we   sailed down to Porto Kayio, and promptly got socked in for 4 days. We were anchored in the small bay, dancing around like a mad hatter to the 30 knot gusts which came from all directions. Boats would come in seeking shelter in the bay, only to experience real difficulties getting their anchor to set. Luckly, our pick was well in, and we'd already dove on it before the wind got up. Megan couldn't sleep, so took deck watch for the four nights; needless to say, her mood didn't improve as her exhaustion levels rose.


Our home for 4 sleepless night.... Porto Kayio


You have to imagine this small anchorage filled with wildly dancing boat.....

In need of some rest, as well as supplies for the boat, we next headed to a marina in Kalamata, at the top of the bay. Kalamata, is of course, the home of the Kalamata olive. In a show of political incorrectness, I remarked to Megan that all the women in Kalamata looked just like the olive; black, plump and juicy. No fem points for that jibe.


As usual, Pav on the dock at Kalamata


Kalamata marina, with the famous Taygetos mountains as a backdrop


Kalamata triumvirate.


Apart from plump women and olives, Kalamata also boasts a Kastro, so we pulled out the bikes and set off to explore.


Staircase to the old castle


View over Kalamata from the fortifications


Inside the fortifications


Another view over Kalamata


The small keep inside the castle walls

On display in the public amphitheatre under the castle was a Venetian era marble capstone, which someone had stolen from Greece, and then sold through Southerby's. When the Greeks discovered the theft, Southerby's were red-faced and the stolen item is now proudly displayed as a sign of corrupt British imperialism. Score points where you can!!



The stolen capstone, admired more for its nefarious history


Small chapel, a later addition to the Kastro.

It was market day in Kalamata, so we had a good shop. Pavlov had boiled one of her batteries, so we had a replacement sent down from Athens. The generator is also out-of-service, so Pavlos too is getting a bit weary of the season, and ready for winter reparations. Kalamata also has a reputation as a home to several of the Ecumenical Patriarchs of the Greek Orthodox church. Here they are honoured by statues outside the main cathedral in Kalamata.



Head honcho's

After 4 days in Kalamata (literally recharging our batteries), we needed to make some miles. Its pretty windy in this part of the world, so we're trying to pick weather windows to keep us out of the worst of it. First jump was to Koroni, famous for its Venetian castle.


Koroni, just on sundown.

Venetian castle extends back from the headland.

We anchored overnight in Koroni, but the winds got up to about 25 knots, precluding us from rowing the dinghy into shore. The loud music overnight till 4 am didn't enamour us to the place, so we pushed on to Methoni. More news from there if and when the wind dies down enough for us to get to shore. For now, its nice just to be in a safe anchorage, right at the tip of the Southern Peleponnese.


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