Monemvasias and the Cape

After leaving Yerakas, we started heading down the coast of the Southern Peleponnese. We're about to change seas, from the Aegean to the Ionian, so I've included this chart for those unfamiliar with this part of the world.

Chart of the Southern Peleponnese

Our first stop was Monemvasias, an incredible Byzantine walled town built on a forbidding chunk of coast that has split off from the mainland. Monemvasias is likened to the Greek Gibraltar. Sailing down the coast, we first saw this massive outcropping of rock.

First sight of Monemvasias

The rock and side view of the town.

View of the town of Monemvasias from the sea

Another view

View of the rock from the coast

The upper city is built on a plateau on top of this rock. This town was built in 583 by people fleeing from the Slavic invasion of Greece. The town became part of the Byzantium empire until about the 1460 AD, and was the seat of an imperial governor. The lower part of the town was built during these periods. The upper town consisted of palaces for the ruling classes, along with many Byzantine churches, one of which (Agia Sophia) survives to this day. The upper town was closed for renovations when we visited. The lower town serviced the needs of tradesmen and commerce. This town has been restored now as a tourist attraction.

The only entrance to the town 

Main street, handcart for transport

Another street view

The town is filled with narrow winding streets. There is no motorised transport at all, and all goods are carried by hand cart.

A dwelling in the lower town

A church in the main square

The interior of the church

The architecture is breathtakingly beautiful; the roof tiles have the same earthen colour as the cliffs, the houses seem to spring whole from the earth. The shapes have an organic quality that is wonderful.

Roofscape and Mediterranean

Wonderful terracotta tiles.

Against the backdrop of the cliffs

Breathtaking views

Dome with bougainvillea

We wandered the town, struggling to climb to the upper town in the mid-day heat. The upper town is closed for repairs, but the view over the rooftops was priceless.

More structures

The upper town battlements are visible on the skyline. 

Small architectural details delight.

The stairs to the upper town

Chimney pot

Many of the lower town structures have been renovated, but the renovation is tasteful and serves to keep Monemvasias as a living monument to Byzantine ideals.

Just a lane way

Unusual roof line of a restored Byzantine church

Another view of the church

A lower level courtyard.

Megan sitting on a square wall.

The sea wall of Monemvasias

Another street view

 Monemvasias port has a bottom with poor holding. It is a thin layer of sand over rock. While we were touring the island, Pavlov started to drag back into the dock. Thanks to the action of our two dock neighbours, who rigged extra lines to their own boats, and tightened our chain, catastrophe was averted. I had to lay a second anchor when we returned, but the holding never felt really secure.

Such a beautiful town

Pavlov on the dock at Monemvasias

 The insecure holding decided us to move on after two nights in Monemvasias. This brought us up against our next sailing challenge, round Cape Maleas at the bottom of the Peleponnese. Cape Maleas has a feared reputation, similar to Cape Horn (but not as extreme). The Cape is where the weather systems of the Aegean and the Ionian meet, and it can have extreme gusts of wind coming down from the mountain. Even back in the Iliad, Jason was swept by a gale past Cape Maleas, and into the land of the Lotus eaters (probably somewhere in Libya). We'd heard stories of yachts holed up for weeks waiting for a weather window to round the Cape.

Leaving Monemvasias

Cape Maleas in the distance

A forbidding chunk of rock

As it eventuated, we had a very calm and peaceful rounding of the Cape, managing to sail about half the way, motoring the rest. The channel between the Cape and Kithera, the most southerly of the Ionian islands, is a very busy seaway, and there is traffic everywhere. If you look closely at the next photo, you'll see a tiny figure striding along the deck of the tanker. We think he might have been doing laps.

Can you see the walker?

We pulled into Frangos bay on the island of Elafonisos, a small island right on the tip of the third peninsula. This bay had the clearest water we have ever seen, and pure white sandy beaches. There is no infrastructure or town here, and only a small township on the north of the island, but Greeks drive over on a ferry to spend time at these beaches. They are truly stunning. Even in 10 metres of water, you can see the bottom perfectly.

Frangos bay on Elafonisos

Our anchorage in Frangos for a few nights.

After Monemvasias, we really appreciated the good holding of a deep sandy bottom, and settled into Frangos for a few days of swimming and relaxing. A secure anchorage goes a long way to aiding our peace of mind. The weather was so benign around the Cape that we even tried fishing. We had a big fish on the line on the way down. It was really big, as it broke the stainless wire trace I have on the leader. Damn, another one that got away.

So it goes!