Coming Home

I've mentioned before about the bimodal lifestyle of cruising. There are two definite phases; 'The Season' and 'Wintering'. The Season is about sailing, summer, travelling, new ports, seeing amazing sights and life aboard a working boat. And at some point in the season, it starts to get exhausting: too many new sights, too much excitement, too much summer heat, too much newness. Megan and I are about at that point now. We've seen so many wonderful sights, we're starting to get blasé. The hot sweaty nights, with only a small electric fan (and only when we have shore power) to keep us sane are wearing us down. We've been to so many ports that they're all starting to dissolve into one big blur. We're becoming numb to seeing the wonders of the world. Yes, we're starting to yearn for Wintering; for staying still, being in one spot, being cool or even cold.

The Venetian fort like a pastel watercolour..

Bridge over the moat

Castle entrance

Methoni was one anchorage that dragged us out of our complacency. This is a delightful harbour and refuge from the constant north westerly winds, right on the tip of the third peninsula of the Peleponnese. Being so situated, it had a pivotal location as a port for the trading route from the East (from the Ottoman empire and the Silk Road) around the tip of Greece to the rest of Europe. Control of these pivotal ports was essential for successful trade, so its not surprising that both Methoni and Koroni featured fortifications. The fortifications at Methoni are Venetian in origin and hail from Byzantine times. They are strikingly beautiful and are complemented by the tourist free and gentle small town that has grown up around them.

Remains of a turkish hamam (bath-house), sign of Ottoman occupation

Megan in front of the tower

The most stunning feature is a tower/guard house built on a tiny islet at the tip of the fort, jutting right out into the sea and connected by a stone bridge causeway. The architecture of this tower shows Venetian sensitivities, and is surprisingly beautiful.

Causeway to the tower

Entrance to the tower

Inside the dome of the tower

View back to the castle

Sun, sea and stone

View from the tower top back to the fort

A shining sea

The size of the enclosed area inside the fort was also surprising, a large and prosperous town could easily fit inside.

Area of the town enclosed by walls

Doorway to the tower

A column of pink granite.

Unusual guardhouse

The moat separating the fort from the mainland.

We loved the little town of Methoni as well. No ferries or tour boats, and no yacht charters land here, so the only tourists drive in, and its a long way from anywhere. It was a sleepy Greek town, but it had the most fantastic swimming site that an Australian Greek couple told us about. There was a path along the castle walls, and we could swim in pristine aquamarine waters right under the old Venetian castle.

Street scene in Methoni

Path along the beach under the castle walls

Small anchorage, Pavlov in the distance

Our Venetian change room

Swimming site right under the castle walls

Other swimmers enjoying the spot

Next stop was a quick overnight at Pylos. We are leaving the Southern Ionian, and its a long haul against a very determined headwind. Even though Pylos was only 7 nautical miles from Methoni, it did reduce the hard slog a bit, and allow us to wait for a good weather window.

Entrance to Pylos port

Pavlov on the dock

Main town and port of Pylos

Next port was Katakolon, a 50 mile slog upwind. We got the weather right, the winds had abated some, and we were actually able to sail for a few hours. Katakolon has no claim to fame except its harbour can accommodate cruise ships who make this the jumping off point for a trip to Olympia. We were able to catch a local train to Olympia.

Rather ugly port of Katakolon

Our train to Olympia

Old Greek rolling stock

The railway station at Olympia

Olympia, a sanctuary in ancient Greece, was of course, the site of the original Olympic Games held there every four years from 8th century BC to 4th century AD. However, Olympia was much more than a site for athletic contests. Wandering around the site, the majority of the buildings were for religious purposes: The massive Temple of Zeus, and the Temple of Hera being two exceptional examples. Compared to these sacred sites, there is only one major 'sporting field'.

Town Hall building of Olympia

Ongoing archeological dig.

Pediments everywhere

Temple of Hera

Doric order columns

Olympia is also known for the gigantic ivory and gold statue of Zeus that used to stand there, sculpted by Pheidias, which was named one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World by Antipater of Sidon. This statue was housed in the Temple of Zeus.

Massive fallen columns of the Temple of Zeus

A restored column of the temple of Zeus 

The Leonidaion

Pediments everywhere

Finally, we saw the Stadium, the site of the original games.

Entrance to the Stadium

The Stadium, restored for the Athenian Olympic games in 2004. Shotput was held here.

There is a wonderful museum, with collections of helmets and pedimentary statues from the site. The pedimentary statues decorated the 'eves' of the temple. There was two magnificent collections from the East and West sides of the Temple of Zeus. One of these depicted a battle between humans and centaurs, mediated by the god Apollo standing in the middle.

Bronze cauldron from the Temple of Zeus

Unusual bronze plaque

Two of the thousands of helmets found on the site 

A smaller example of pedimentary statues 

This large pedimentary group depicts a battle between humans and Centaurs, mediated by Apollo 

Some of the details from that pediment.

Detail of Apollo

A Centaur

Female in the pediment

Human warriors

The statuary from this site was exceptional. One of the most famous of all is the sculpture of Hermes and the infant Dionysus, by Praxelites. This was found in the Temple of Hera in 1877. There is also a famous version of Nike, the winged goddess.

Hermes and the infant Dionysus

Nike, the winged goddess

Another view of Nike

So Methoni and Olympia were spectacular sites, well worth the visit. However, we're getting over 'spectacles'. We're looking forward to 'going home'. We don't know what home is like yet, but we do know where it is. We will be wintering in Lefkas, at a marina on the island. It is connected to the mainland by a causeway, so we will be able to get off the island to travel. We're starting to yearn for the peace of winter, the boat in one place for six month, tied securely to a dock that doesn't change every few days. We're full of Summer and its been a wonderful summer, full of surprises, beauty and very few problems. But now, bring on Winter. We're ready!!