Rumbles in the Aeolians

We've had interesting experiences in the Straits of Messina before; you might recall a blog called 'Scylla and Charybdis' that recounted our experiences with 40 knot winds that developed at the drop of a hat. So we had prepared ourselves for the unexpected when we again entered the Straits going north. We stopped the night before at Riposto, bunkering and watering the boat. We ran into some old friends of ours from Turkey, Terry and Christina, who have managed to extricate themselves from their older wooden yacht Kontiki, and were sporting a newer 50 foot Beneteau.

Terry and Christina on their new boat.

Sunrise in the Messina Straits

A bit of traffic in the TSS

Is that Jack Spratt, appearing out of the mist? 

Its a reasonable leg from Riposte through the Straits to Milazzo on Siciliy's north coast. We left at first light and had a very pleasant trip through the Straits, marvelling at several whirlpools and current overfalls abeam of Messina itself. I can see why these Straits inspire fear in sailors, with Mount Etna brooding over it all. Etna had erupted just a few days earlier, so we missed that display.

Abeam of Messina

Tower marking the mouth of the Straits

Swordfish boat, steered by the captain up the pole! 

The admiral at large.

We anchored just outside the port of Milazzo, and caught up with some other Australian friends, John and Megan (M2 for disambiguation!). We planned a crossing over to the Aeolian Islands with them; we've seldom sailed in convoy with friends, and it turned out to be a great experience.

John and Megan's boat, Sea Fox

In sight of Vulcano

The Admiral's getting excited!

One of the three craters of Vulcano.

The first Aeolian island we pulled into was Vulcano. It was a beautiful anchorage, the first time we've really enjoyed a scenic anchorage in Italy. We walked around the sulphurous fumaroles, blinded ourselves in the mud pool, scalded ourselves in the hot bubbly water on the beach, and generally had a great time.

Picturesque anchorage in Vulcano

Main port

Sulphurous cliffs

M1 and M2

John poking a fumerole... it's HOT

Volcanic landscape

A bit of carved pumice

The evil sulphurous mud baths... taking the cure might be worse than the problem.

About to get dirty...

This is the sulphur sauna

Next stop after Vulcano was Lipari, where we pulled into a concession dock for the night. We wandered the streets of Lipari, and were serenaded by LOUD music from a large catamaran party boat. It took high powered spot lights and calls of complaint to get the volume down below ear damage level. With a first-light departure, we set off for a longer leg, passing Panarea and the active volcano Stromboli.

Town of Lipari

Main street of Lipari

A couple of sweeties

Our very noisy and rolly dock for the night

Enroute with Seafox

First sight of Panarea

Another island wearing its cloud as a hat 

Small volcanic plugs around Panarea

Those who die with the biggest toys ....

Dramatic plugs rising from the sea bed

Sunbeam, plug and Stromboli in the distance

Pavvie frames Stromboli

From Panarea, Stromboli was the next sail-by. There really isn't any good anchorages, but its a dramatic sight sailing past a steaming active volcano. We saw different coloured puffs of smoke, and some ejecta from the crown, but no glowing lava. Quite an impressive sight, you have to wonder about those hardy souls living in its lee.

Smoking Stromboli

Panarea group astern

Stromboli with sunbeam 

Brave inhabitants

View of the crater

Lava flows

Seafox with lava

Stunning scenery

Ejecta piled up at the bottom of the crater

After passing Stromboli, we had an un-eventful haul back to the Calabrian coast. We anchored off Vivo Valentia, with Seafox hosting a wonderful non-italian meal (thanks, Megan, it was an antidote to the p&p blues). Next up for the Pavlovians is a cruise up the gorgeous (and impossibly expensive) Amalfi coast to Naples. Next report should be from Pompeii. Stay tuned.

Main township on Stromboli, interesting cubist architecture.

A last good-bye to Strombolicchio