We left you, dear readers, in the smoking ruins of Stromboli in the Aeolian islands off the west Italian coast. As a follow up, we thought we'd take you to a truely non-scary place, Scario. So hold onto your hats as we slide up the Italian coast.
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Serene conditions closing the Italian coast |
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Pavlov on the dock at Scario |
Vibo Valentia was the first port of call, with the smoking Stromboli slipping below the horizon. We've managed to find sheltered anchoring spots in the lee of breakwaters built out from this otherwise not-anchoring-friendly coast. Such was the case at Vibo Valentia and Cetraro, our next port of call. We've welcomed this as the marina's along this stretch of coast are becoming very expensive, and the breakwater provides some much needed respite from the generally rolly conditions in the Tyrrhenian Sea.
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Attractive port of Scario |
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There was a Ferrari club meeting, this was one attending car. |
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Photogenic hills in the distance |
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Scary port?? |
Another 30nm hop took us to the gorgeous port of Acciaroli. Again, we were able to anchor in the shelter of the breakwater, after bunkering at the fuel dock.
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Church and watchtower at Acciaroli
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Acciaroli street scape |
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Munchkins on passiagata. |
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Guaranteed to scare small children |
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Tradition gaff rigged skiff off Salerno. |
From Acciaroli, we punched up to Salerno, just south of the Bay of Naples. This was to prove a good home and base for travelling the Amalfi coast, and we were able to anchor off the main promenade, right in the middle of this sizeable town.
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Salerno at night |
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Salerno, with the fort at the top of the hill |
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Seafox next to us in the anchorage |
Salerno made a great base to explore from, the first trip was a ferry ride to Positano, then back to Amalfi. These are both pretty towns perched on the steep hillsides, but they have been totally 'husked' by the incessant flow of tourists who commandeer the soul of these towns.
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Dawn off Salerno |
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Italian style |
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Amalfi coast |
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Town of Amalfi |
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Coming into Positano |
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Positano town |
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Bow first docking at Positano |
We strolled the town of Positano with John and Meagen. The charm of the town is undeniable, but I feel a sense of shame in being a part of the 'husking force' that devoids these towns of real life. The high prices, the grockle and pap sold to tourists, and the hustle-bustle of tourists repels me with vigor. Both Megan and I have seen enough 'tourist spots' now, so we try to avidly avoid them, and instead seek the common-place and ordinary.... far more interesting in our minds.
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John with gardenias. |
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Megan on the promenade |
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One more shrine, in case God forgets. |
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Artist's impression of Positano |
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Behind the town |
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Steep sites |
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Waiting for the next john |
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Houses flowing to the sea |
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Bougainvillea's abound |
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View from above the town |
We caught a bus back to Amalfi from Positano. Every story you read about this terrifyingly narrow, steep, twisted and tortured road is true. If buses meet, they must back up sometimes for 50 metres, to find a spot just wide enough for the two to pass. Its every driver's foreign driving nightmare. Even riding the bus was enough of an ordeal. Amalfi is like a clone of Positano, we didn't hang around long
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Amalfi main square |
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Main church in Amalfi |
We spent 5 days in Salerno in all, including time for a dentist trip to repair yet another broken tooth. We loved this town for its utility, and visited Pompeii by local bus from Salerno. But that is another story!
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