Heel and Toe

Heel and toe, heel and toe, slide slide slide..... I'm flashing back to primary school and a dance lesson given by the inimitable Mr Leech (anyone else out there go to Artarmon PS?). It was the Pride of Erin, I think. Its kind of an appropriate memory as we are indeed sliding from the heel to the toe of Italy.

Free berth in Brindisi

Pavlov is moored under the ugliest statue to 'The Italian Sailor'.

First port of call was Brindisi, a major ferry and commercial port. We actually managed to score a free berth, right under the ugliest and largest statue I've ever seen. Its a monument to 'The Italian Sailor' and it represents a huge rudder blade. Ugh! Only problem with the free berth was that it was fully fenced and we had to escape through a hole in said fence. The lengths we go to to avoid marina fees!!!

Main drag of Brindisi

Megan buying some cloth from a recent immigrant to Italy.

That statue again

We're reading a lot about the flood of refugee's into countries like Italy, and you can see large numbers of immigrants trying to make a dollar in markets and street side stalls. We've even seen them selling empty parking places. It must be very difficult to survive in the gloomy economic conditions of Europe today. However, there is a vibrant energy about, as captured in the impromptu dance scene below.

Street drummers 

Impromptu dancing mano-a-mano

From Brindisi, we slid down the coast to Otranto. We knew there was a military firing range in the vicinity, but we were very surprised when two large high-speed RIBs with about 20 soldiers and 2 large machine-guns in each came flying up behind us in our wake. We thought we might have inadvertently strayed into their firing range. They passed us, with only a few metres to spare. Later we heard live round firing, as they strafed 'targets' on the beach.

Otranto fortifications 

Old Norman walls to Otranto. Note the different style coat of arms over the gate.

The old town surrounding the fortifications

There was some weather predicted, so we settled into Otranto for a few days. The cathedral in Otranto was amazing. We thought we were looking at tapestries of skulls, but when we got closer, it turned out that these were actual skulls and bones stacked behind picture windows in the main sept.

Cathedral ceiling, Otranto 

Tree of Life floor mosaics, Otranto  Cathedral

Baroque organ, Otranto

We originally thought that these were tapestries...

But no, they are actual skull and bones, stacked behind picture window

just behind the main altar

Old Norman fresco in subterranean crypt, Otranto

Old town and port of Otranto

Lovely Piazza on the Otranto waterfront

Old fortifications, Otranto

We also caught the train to Lecce. It was an interesting but long experience, its a private train line that runs a single motorised carriage. At Lecce, we saw another cathedral, had a cup of coffee and came home. About 6 hours of travelling for 30 minutes of sight seeing. Lecce is a Baroque town, and its ornately carved and decorated stone buildings are worth seeing.

Old motorised train carriage to Lecce

Our fellow travellers, the guy on the right was quite a storyteller

Baroque buildings, Lecce

Baroque statuary

Town square, Lecce

Cathedral wall

Cupola dome in Lecce cathedral

Beautiful fresco on the cupola

More Italian masterpieces

After the weather settled, it was off to Sante Maria di Leuce, a port right on the tip of the heel. There wasn't much to see here, so next day, with a roaring northerly wind, we made the long crossing across the Golfo de Taranto, to Crotone. We had a great sail, and crossed the 75 mile mouth of the bay in about 12 hours. We were now in the instep area, heading for the toe. Then fate dealt us a blow. Megan began developing a fever with severe headaches, vomiting and body pain. A long long day at the Crotone hospital followed. There's nothing quite as alienating as being ill in a foreign hospital where no-one speaks your language. It turned out that Megan has a bad bladder infection, and we'll need to lay up here in Crotone for about 5 - 7 days while she recuperates.

Gritty old town, Crotone

Old style apartments

Venetian fortifications, Crotone

Apartments and castles

Crotone is an interesting, gritty Italian town; definitely not on the tourist trail. There are no cruise ships, no tour guides with their raised umbrella's, no packs of marauding tourists being mass fed grockle. We will set out and explore, but for now, its time to recuperate.

Megan shakes while the doctor prevaricates

Awaiting treatment

The Italian health system shows all the signs of the world wide funding cutbacks to free medical care. We appreciate that Australia has reciprocal health rights with Italy, so our visit to the hospital is free, but you certainly know that you are receiving socialised medical care on the bottom of the food chain. Send well wishes to Megan, and we'll see you in toe time at all. Arrivederci!