The Ionian Sea

We are in a new sea, and everything is different. We are adapting to a different weather pattern; Ionian weather does not have the extremes of the meltemi in the Aegean. It has a much gentler but much more definite cycle. Wind is calm in the mornings, but starts to build to a Force 3 - 4 in the afternoon, 90% of the time from the north west. It seldom blows harder than 20 knots.

Plaything of the Emir of Quatar

The Ionian also has a much greater maritime population. We've been used to almost deserted ports in the far North and South of Greece. We've been seeing no charters, few tourists and no cruise boats in the more desolate stretches of the Peleponnese. All of a sudden, there are charter boats driven by slavering idiots everywhere. Tourists abound, yachts are a dime a dozen.  The photo above is a great example. Our first island port of call in the Ionian was Zakynthos, and this wee craft pulled into the dock as we watched. This vessel is one of the largest super yachts in the world, cost over GBP 300,000 , has a crew of over 50 and belongs to the Emir of Quatar. The vessel is carrying four passengers only. Every morning, the crew puts out the 'toys' for the day. There are four motor scooters, four underwater propulsion units, four jet ski's, four bikes, but alas, only one jet helicopter. I guess the spoilt darlings have to squabble over that one.

Ionian light house at Agrostoli on the island of Kefalonia.

We actually fell prey to a scam at Zakynthos port, where a fellow came and demanded docking fees just after we landed. He showed us a card, and gave us a receipt, in Greek of course. Later we learned from the harbour police that he was scamming, and Megan had to give evidence to help in his capture. We are much more suspicious of 'harbour masters' who come demanding money and offering spurious advice now. Zakynthos didn't appeal to us, way too many tourists and charter boats, so we headed up to Kefalonia and the quiet little port of Agrostoli.

Pavlov on the dock at Agrostoli.

At least the dock was not crowded.

Agrostoli was a pleasant reprieve from the hustle and bustle of Zakynthos. The port was uncluttered, there was a large lagoon at the end of the harbour. There was some weather on the way, and we'd heard that the dock can become untenable in strong southerlies, so we retreated to a deserted marina over the other side of the bay. This was a godsend, quiet and sheltered, totally free. It was a good place to sit out a few days of wind and rain.

Agrostoli's main street

Lagoon at Agrostoli, full of logger head turtles.

Pavlov seeking haven in the abandoned marina.

Old deserted boats in the abandoned marina.

While wandering around the back blocks behind the marina, we found a British war cemetery with graves from the 1800's right up to WWII. There was a British garrison stationed on Kefalonia, with a lot of residents dying of cholera. The UK War Graves commission employed a local Brit to care for this cemetery.

Statue in the British war cemetery.

Ionian column in the cemetery 

A Greek cemetery next door.

From Agrostoli, we headed up to Eufimia when the weather had calmed down. That was the first rain we had all season, but it definitely heralded the arrival of autumn. The days are cooling down, there are the occasional clouds in the sky, and it has rained several times since. I had a run in with a stroppy Greek harbourmaster that wanted to tell me how to drive my boat, with a series of yells and irate hand signals. He was not impressed when I ignored every instruction. We rode our bikes about 20 km to visit the underground lake at Melissani. These were a disappointment after the majestic caverns of Diros, but at least we got some good exercise.

Boat landing stage in the cavern

Stalagmite formations

Her Majesty

Interior cavern

Main cavern

Exiting the boats

Water wheel powered by water from the caverns.

After leaving Eufimia, we went to Fiskardo.  Kefalonia was badly affected by a major earthquake in 1953, which destroyed all the buildings on the island, except those in the town of Fiskardo. The buildings there were gorgeous, built by early Norman and Venetian inhabitants. However, the town is very popular with tourists and charter boat sailors. I just don't have much tolerance left for tourists, with the lights, expensive cafe's and loud disco music, nor charters who put other people's boats at risk by their poor docking and anchoring techniques. I know its a bug bear of life-aboard cruisers and we should be good-natured about it, but by the end of the season, my patience is wearing a little thin. We saw an incredible display of unbridled aggression by an Italian charter, who believed the boat next to him had laid its chain over his. He demanded the other boat leave, and started to swear and hit the other boat with his boat hook. This almost led to fisticuffs with the Greek owner of the other boat. When he didn't get his way, the Italian left the dock at high speed in such a display of unseamanlike petulance, I felt like damning the whole breed.

Pavlov docked at a restaurant at Fiskardo 

Older architecture of Fiskardo

Charming lane ways

Fiskardo harbour

We had some time to stroll around the lane ways of Fiskardo, which really were beautiful under the layer of touristic grackle.  We took a walk out to a Venetian lighthouse and a Christian Basilica, with beautiful views up the Ithika channel. We also swam at what must be one of the most photogenic and beautiful beaches in Greece. The water was aquamarine, and the pebbles on the beach were a dusky pink. Megan was in heaven.

Charming cottage amidst fragrant pines

The town promenade around the bay

The town of Fiskardo.

Walks through pine forests

Venetian light house against the Ithika channel

Lighthouse looking south down the Ithika channel. Ithika is on the left.

Old marble lighthouse

Porthole in the lighthouse

Beautiful beaches and shoreline

Christian Basilica

Small beach with restaurants, a very pretty town

Lightkeepers house, looking to the new lighthouse

We rested up in Fiskardo for two days, then departed for Lefkas. Lefkas will be our winter home, and I'm getting excited to see what's in store. We'll be spending six months there, so the choice of 'winter home' is a big investment. Both Megan and I are feeling a little weary, and we're ready for the end of the season. We have some friends visiting, and it will be fun to share a bit of the Ionian with them. But I think we've imbibed enough Greek island cuteness, along with all the touristic flotsam and jetsam that it brings, to last us through the whole winter.