Around the Ionian - Part II

Continuing our jaunt around the Ionian Sea with Chris and Kim, our Australian ex-pat friends, we headed from Kastos to a fishing town on the mainland, Astakos. On the way, we stopped to look at a large ship breaking yard (another of those EU white elephants, after spending millions of dollars, it has not been commissioned). Amazingly, we actually managed to hook a fish, a reasonably-sized sea bass while in the bay. This was a joint effort, with me hooking the fish, and Chris landing it.

Chris reeling her in.

About to land her

Another one for the bucket!

A good catch

About to be filleted.

Astakos was an enjoyable town, not on the tourist routes with no local ferry or influx of ravening hordes. There were a few Greek tourists, but it was mainly a fishing town, and had preserved its working character.

Pavlov on the dock at Astakos

Astakos grocery market

In the grocery shop

At the butcher's 

From Astakos, we stopped at the beautiful anchorage called 'One House Bay', on the island of Atako. It is so called because there is only one small uninhabited dwelling on this bay. We had a delightful time at anchor, swimming in the crystal clear waters. We then headed to Varthi on Ithaka, chasing the paths of Homer's great hero, Odysseus.

Pavlov on the dock at Ithaka.

Odysseus, the hero himself.

A small well on Ithaka

Old church tower

Varthi on Ithaka, stretching around the bay

There was a little weather on its way, and Ithaka turned out to be a beautiful, delightful island, so we decided to stay a few days. We rented a car to see the island. Ithaka is reputed to be the home of Odysseus, the legendary hero of Homer's epic tale. Much of the plot of 'The Odyssey' concerns Odysseus's belated return to his beloved home on Ithaka. Here's the quote from the book:

" dwell in shining Ithaca. There is a mountain there,

high Neriton, covered in forests. Many islands

lie around it, very close to each other,

Doulichion, Same, and wooded Zacynthos--

but low-lying Ithaca is farthest out to sea,

towards the sunset, and the others are apart, towards the dawn and sun.

It is rough, but it raises good men."

There is still controversy about the identity of the 'real Ithaka'. We went to an exhibit, that purported to prove that Ithaka was the real thing.

Are we in the 'real Ithaka', exhibition

A model of Odysseus's reputed palace

A bust of Homer

Ithaka has a population of only 3000 individuals, most located in Varthi. We enjoyed driving around the island, which is densely wooded and quite lush.

Ithaka'n cottage

Stavros house

Country home

Ithaka'n wildflower

Stavros cottage

On the advice of some local Brit's, we went to Polyphemis, an interesting restaurant run by a Swiss woman. We had a very different type of meal there, in an unusual garden setting.

Entrance to Polyphemus restaurant

Megan in the restaurant garden

Chris in a pensive mood

Interesting cactus garden

We also visited the tiny port of Lefki for a swim, and wandered up to the Cave of the Nymphs, where Odysseus was reputedly abandoned by the Phoenicians.

Old cottage at Lefki

Tiny port of Lefki

Our rental car at Lefki's only cafe

Entrance of the Cave of the Nymphs

We also visited a monastery on the island. There were gorgeous views over the channel between Ithaka and Kefalonia, and over the town of Varthi from the high cliffs on the drive home.

Beach at Lefki

The monastery on Ithaka

Church at the monastery

More Goddy stuff

View down to Varthi and its wonderfully sheltered harbour

From Varthi, we sailed to Sivota on the southern end of Ithaca, and spent a few relaxing days in that nice quiet town. The rainy season has started and we retreated to a local taverna to escape the confines of the boat. With some weather due to arrive, we left Sivota to return to Lefkas, where Chris and Kim are catching the bus to Thessaloniki for the next stage of their return to Australia. Megan and I are looking forward to checking into the marina for our winter stay, but our contract doesn't start until the 1st of October. Next report will be of our winter home in Lefkas.