Hong Kong 37 years on

I last visited Hong Kong in 1979. We were about to spend three weeks in China. Hong Kong then was a British colony under a 99 year lease dating from 1898. In 1997 it was returned to the control of China. Hong Kong historically was a listening post for the west. It is amazing to remember now the fear and hatred that was expressed by governments in the west during the cold war. China now is a major player in the global economy and governments in Australia, Labor and Liberal, have courted her.

My impressions of the island in 1979 was of an Asian destination infused with British overtones. I remember visiting the Mariners Club, after our tour of China, to buy large chocolate milkshakes unavailable in China. Dairy was only in cans or powder in China. An odd thing to remember, but in 79 China was still largely unknown to western tourists and the country untouched by western products. Of course the other British influence was on the names of streets or geographic sites: like Aberdeen, Albert Road or Victoria Harbour. Though these names are still here others have been added like Hanoi St and Sun Yat Sen St.

ferry ride in Hong Kong harbour

Visually one sees a busy, populated and polluted city. It's amazing skyline has featured in many films. It is also a city determined to look after it's people. There are clearly two aspects of this paternalism. As you travel on the escalators a voice in Cantonese and English warns you to hold the rail as you may fall, another voice warns of the water on the station footpaths a result of rain which may cause you to slip. There is no water. Signs on bill boards and in trains and buses remind you to look after the old and young. "This is a breast feeding friendly work place" and " know your rights and be aware of your award in your work place" I liked this. However it was all a bit much. One had to think who was behind all of this "caring" culture. Was it caring or controlling?

Street on Hong Kong island

2014 witnessed a series of protests in Hong Kong which became known as the Umbrella Revolution. Reforms to their electoral system had citizens of Hong Kong up in arms. China is after all a dictatorship that does not care for dissent. The Chinese communist party was to screen candidates in elections. These events split Hong Kong society and galvanized the youth into political activism. Police used tear gas and even triad members were reported to be attacking the protestors. Just prior to our visit, coinciding with Chinese New Year, other demonstrations were held. The local paper stated that tourism from the mainland was down as a result. I spoke to a couple of employees of our hotel. One said Hong Kong changes day by day, never the same. The other said the days before 1997 were the good old days.

So much we don't hear about in our press. As always one has to have work to find out what is really happening outside Australia.  One needs to begin by listening to the ABC of course.