The Sporades

The Sporades (literally, the 'Scattered Ones') is a archipelago of islands off the Greek mainland of Thessaly. The main inhabited islands are Skiathos, Skopelos, Skyros and Alonnisos. There are several uninhabited islands, which are important as they provide the home for half the world's remaining population of monk seals. It is estimated that there are only 600 monk seals still living, and 300 of them live in the islands of the Sporades.

We sailed down the eastern coast of the mainland, leaving it at Platamonas, a fishing and resort town nestled close by Mount Olympus.

Our last cafe visit in Thessaloniki 

Holiday resort of Platamonas

Pavvie on the dock at Platamonas

Some new english friends, Neil and Pat

Beach at Platamonas, Mt Olympus in background

After leaving the mainland, we pushed down to Skiathos, the first of the Sporades. Skiathos is very touristy and part of 'Mamma Mia' was filmed there. It was loud blaring disco music till 0600 in the anchorage just outside the main town, so we rapidly departed the island the next day.

Skiathos town from our anchorage

Very sexy yacht of some Italian friends 

Skiathos houses

Greek fast food joint.

Greek hammam, or 'Turkish Bath'.

Garden courtyards

Accordian player

Skopelos, the next island in the chain, was an oasis of peace in comparison to Skiathos. We settled into Loutraki, port for the town of Glossa, for a few days.

Sunrise at sea, enroute to Skopelos

Mediterranean sunset

Even the fishing boats are cute

Pavlov at the dock at Loutraki 

Megan, strolling the boulevard

The port at Loutraki, Pavlov in the background.

Town boulevarde at Loutraki

Change booth at the beach

Church at the port

Boulevarde

Al fresco dining

From Loutraki, we caught a bus to Skopelos town, the main town on the island.

Skopelos town

Shopping street

Ottoman architecture

Church at Skopelos

Older part of Skopelos town

More cute fishing boats

Mighty midget fishing caique

From Skopelos, we sailed up to Alonissos island, to the port of Tzorti. This was a lovely anchorage on a lush and densely vegetated island.

Sunrise over Tzorti

Anchorage at Tzorti

Beach behind the boat

Dawn at anchor

Panagia is a deserted island at the north eastern end of the chain. At the tip of the northern most end is a narrow entrance to an enclosed bay, an ideal snugglepot. We had to go and investigate. The islands around here are home to the monk seal. Visitors are encouraged to leave the seals strictly alone, and you are not allowed to approach them closer than 500m.

Northern island of the Sporades, home to the monk seal

Tip of Panagea

Steep cliffs plunge into the sea

Fortunately,  the bay that we entered, Limani Planitis is very sheltered. It has a very narrow entrance, only about 30m across. A meltemi blew up and made the entrance untenable to leave, keeping us at anchor in the bay for 2 days. It was a delightful anchorage, so we did some boat maintenance and played Scrabble and guitar to pass the time.

Very narrow entrance to Limani Planitis

Very sheltered anchorage, even though 30 knots are blowing outside. 

Heading back down the archipelago chain, we stopped at Steni Vala on the island of Alonissos.

The dock at Steni Vala

This is a very small town on a beautiful dock in a little tiny bay that can squeeze in about a dozen boats. A few tavernas, a monk seal rehabilitation unit and a couple of stores line the shore. Its about as close as I've been to yottie heaven. We met two other boating couples: Brian and Sue off Dawn Surprise, and Lisa and Janne from Sally Ruth. We had a wonderful evening making music, eating goat at the local taverna and sharing. The social life while cruising may lack longevity and permanence, but it makes up for that with intensity and immediacy. 

Grrl power; Sue, Lisa and Megan

Sue and Brian, off Dawn Surprise

A refugee from Mama Mia, I'm sure

Last day in Steni Vala, we took a bus to the main town of Patriti.

Shady port of Patriti, capital of Alonissos

Town of Patriti

Leaving the breakwater mole.

Megan on the rocks?

We had a great time in the Sporades, a perfect mixture of socialising and alone time; activity and serenity. It doesn't get better than this. Up next is the Evvia channel and the Saronic Gulf.