On the road to Thessaloniki

We've been having quite uneventful times on the road to Thessaloniki. No dramas or breakdowns, just a succession of interesting ports and peaceful anchorages. We've progressed north to our zenith, this is the most northerly point in the Aegean. We plan to leave the boat for a week or so in Thessaloniki, and travel around by car. So here are some mundane details of our trip north.

A sea shot of Pavlov taken by Nemir (Bob and Joani).

The tale of Snugglepot and Cuddlepie elicited a few favourable reactions, and Ngaire, a friend of ours from Australia sent this photo of the gum nut pair taken in Perth.

Another rendition of Snugglepot and Cuddlepie, courtesy of Ngaire Wills

We slipped our lines and departed Dhiaporos at the same time as Bob and Joanie of the fine yacht Nemir. They sail a beautiful vintage Van der Stadt ketch that must be one of the most meticulously maintained boats I've seen. She's 53' LOA with very fine lines, a delightful coach house  and a sweeping sheer that takes the breath away. I tried to get some sea shots of her, but lacked a telephoto lens. Megan might share some in her blog.

Nemir at sea.

Nemir and Mt Athos, rhapsody in blue.

We passed by the Mad Monk Mountain again on the way out of the peninsula, so I couldn't resist adding a few more shots.

Nemir and interloper against Mount Athos.

Mount Athos

Our first port after Dhiaporos was the delightful anchorage of Porto Kaufo on the middle finger of the Khalkhadiki. Nemir and Scarlett (Dave and Shani) also sailed here.

Entrance to the enclosed port, Nemir leading the way

Dramatic cliffs protect the anchorage

A sheltered anchorage at Porto Kaufo

Another taverna overlooking Porto Kaufo

An option for us when we swallow the anchor?

View of the enclosed bay from the northern end.

Porto Kaufo is a very small settlement in one of the most protected anchorages in the Med. It caters to a few visiting yachts, tunny fishing boats in winter and not much else. It was rather strange to see this memorial to a crashed Chinook helicopter at this location. Interesting too, that they couldn't find a wrecked Chinook, so used a derelict Huey instead!

Monument to a crashed Chinook helicopter. 

Cuddlepies are short lasting affairs, so Nemir and Scarlett departed the next day for the Sporades. We lingered another day enjoying the beaches and biking. Next up was Nea Marmara, so named because during the 1923 mass deportation of Greeks from Turkey, many in the area around Istanbul (the Sea of Marmara) were resettled in the then worthless coastal lands on the Khaldikhi peninsula. Of course, now they own prime real-estate to cater for the tourist boom.

Stern tie to the dock at Nea Marmara

Municipal floating dock at Nea Marmara, Pavlov at the end.

Day tripper ferry on the city dock

Nea Marmara, being heavily influenced by Turkish culture, had a Turkish style market that let us restock cheaply. We really enjoy shopping for food at these markets, the produce is fresh and half the price of the supermarkets.

Fresh fruit and vegetables

Pastries and shoes, you can get everything at the market.

All shopped out

A mobile kantina.

Coastal apartments of Nea Marmara

Like a lot of these tourist towns, the population doesn't come out until 9 or 10pm to dine. Then the clubs start up and its party time until just before dawn, about the time we are able to finally fall asleep. The towns do transform at night, from the hot and dusty places they are in the daytime.

Night time at Nea Marmara

Moonrise over the port.

 Next, we jumped around the headland to Nea Skioni, a hot and dusty down at the heel tourist town.

Pavlov alongside at Nea Skioni

The original dock walker

Skioni from the fishing harbour

Skioni taverna

And finally, we tied up at Nea Moudana. A lot of these coastal villages have large fishing harbours to cater for the fishing industry and tramp steamers that ship materials up and down the coast. These ports often have an area suitable for yachts, or you can often go alongside in the commercial area if traffic is low. They provide a wonderful resource for cheap yachting, as they are generally free. Pavlov is pretty independent for water and electricity these days, so we really don't need the luxuries of marinas. Greece has provided us with the boon of cheap or free berthing, so we can salt away a few coins for when it gets really expensive, Italy!

The happy crew of Pavlov

Well, that's got us up to date, and lurking just outside Thessaloniki. Tomorrow, we're off to the big smoke (Thessaloniki is the second largest city in Greece) to spend some time off the boat. Till then!