Escape to Syros

If you've been following our adventures, you'll know that Pavlov has been going through hard times, washed up on unfriendly shores.  We've spent a total of 5 weeks in Sousaki and Lavrio trying to repair the boat. We ordered a gear box that arrived in 10 days instead of 2. Our mechanic left in the meantime. We installed the gearbox on our own, a 12 hour blood, tears and sweat ordeal, only to discover that it was faulty and leaking ATF at a great rate. We removed gearbox, ordered another and began again. We became gearbox experts. We had workmen completing insurance repairs on the fibreglass and teak. We battled with immigration authorities to allow us to remain in Greece beyond our expiring visas. We appealed to the Australian Embassy when the Greek authorities wanted us to just 'fly home' for 3 months. It took a flood of tears from Megan for them to understand the Pavlov is our home. Everything seemed to break on the boat all at once. New generator, new chain, new anchor, new windlass, new transmission, new drive plate, new teak capping, new fibreglassing, new shower pump, outboard repaired. Parts of the new windlass, just installed, had to be returned due to the chrome falling off. Another bus trip into Piraeus. Hassle after hassle.

Main port, Ermoupolis in Syros

Well, all of that, touch wood, is NOW OVER! We have escaped the confines of Lavrio to Syros. We had a spanking good sail in the strongest winds we've ever sailed in on Pavlov (Force 6 on the Beaufort Scale), we had 2 reef's in the main, flying just the staysail and were still hitting 8 knots. We just flew away from Lavrio!

Megan at the main port.

Cruising in the Cyclades was great. The islands can be beautiful, offer many different experience from the touristic chaos of Santorini to the unspoilt treasures of Folegandros. None of these prepared us for the reality of mainland Greece. Attika (the area comprising Athens and its surrounds) is a state in decline: the populace can be down-hearted, rude and abrupt. They blame politicians for everything, including rising taxes, but no-one pays tax! The public spaces are uncared for, unkept and covered with graffiti. There is no evidence of any central planning. Public infra-structure seems to be failing, not maintained or not working. Evidence of the financial crisis is everywhere. There are frequent demonstrations and rallies as people protest their predicament. Salaries are being slashed, taxes are rising. We felt trapped in this unhappy land, helpless and unable to leave.

Picturesque bathing spot

Some-how, even though our spirits were ebbing low at times, we managed to complete each trial and challenge. We tested the motor and our work. It seemed unbelievable, but we were finally ready to leave. The meltemi had been blowing 40 knots for the previous week, we were pleased to see a manageable sailing window of Force 5 - 6 was blowing on Sunday (14th July), so we threw our dice into the air and departed Lavrio.

Marble paved streets

As soon as we'd docked in Ermoupolis, the difference in tone and style from the mainland was striking. The town was elegant and beautiful. The streets were filled with interesting shops with a mixture of tourists and locals thronging around. There was a free opera in progress in the town square. People felt alive and happy! So did we!!

Overlooking the town.

We climbed (and it was a righteous long climb) up to a church that hovered above the town (typical God spot). The view from the top was stunning. We could see Mykonos and Delos, Naxos and Tinos spacing out into the blue Mediterranean distance.

Church above the town.

Inside the god spot.

Church iconography

Wow, we were delighting in being tourists again. Just walking around looking at stuff. It felt great after the grind of boat maintenance and mindless bureaucracy we'd been suffering. We just drank it all in.

View from the top

View out to sea.

Its time to celebrate. The wheels are back on the Travelling Pavlov Roadshow. We have guests arriving in a few weeks and we need to get back to the Turkish coast. So into gear and off we go.

Pavlov in Ermoupolis port

Pavlov's wounds have been healed, notice the new glasswork and nice new teak around her gunwales, new cleats and fittings.

Pavlov renewed.

We're back on track and our spirits are lifting. Bring it on, we say, bring it on !!!