Beauty abounds!

As I mentioned last post, Megan and I needed to chill out for a while, just relax in some peaceful spots.

Well, we founds some glorious places, quite peaceful anchorages where we could just be at one with the beautiful world we live in. Bozueruenluek was one, a tiny dog-leg harbour with a few live-aboard itinerant fishermen living on their boats.

Main bay, Mersincik. Homestead/farm showing.

But the harbour we enjoyed the most was Mersincik, a tiny notch in the wall of another bay. It was so calm and protected, the water was like a crystal ball that you could gaze into for hours. There were many long thin garfish, bright purple, to watch drifting through the water.

Pavlov tucked into a tiny hole in the wall

Unfortunately, beautiful places are popular, and the gulet's invaded about mid-day. They bring their loud toys, like jet ski's and boom-boxes. Most leave in the later afternoon, they are mainly day trippers.

The invasion fleet.

The only sign of habitation on land was a large olive grove. We walked through the farm, which was also a home-stay type place with apartments available. It was just lovely, with stone walk ways and unbelievable views, set in these tall mountains. Quite remote and beautiful.

Pathway to the farm

Looking back to the bay

Unfortunately, we ran out of food, so had to leave to re-provision. We've headed into Knidos, a place we visited in Papalagi (our first Med charter boat) over 3 years ago. Tomorrow, its off to Datca, where we hope to find a large supermarket. Our basic supplies have really been depleted, and we're living on beans and rice!

Pavlov is in a nook around the far corner.

As we sailed to Knidos, we saw a yacht up on the rocks on a remote headland. We investigated, but saw no survivors or passengers. We tried contacting Turk Coast Guard on VHF Ch. 16. No one answered, I'm glad it wasn't a Mayday call we were putting out. It reminded us that serious shit happens. I said a little mantra for the crew of the boat we saw, hoping that they were alright, and could eventually salvage their boat.

What's next, Doc?

To paraphrase Bugs, we've been contemplating our future. We've completed our first year on the boat, had lots of adventures, quite a few stressful times and more boat issues than I thought possible.

Entry lighthouses at Didem marina

We lost the anchor windless function following our brush with lightening, so we stopped at Didem marina to effect repairs. We had Megan's brother and sister-in-law, David and Carolene on board, who enjoyed the luxury of the marina.

Spacious luxurious marina

Carolene, in Didem marina

Leaving Didem, we anchored in a few secluded anchorages, without incident. Every thing was running smoothly, until we entered Gumeusleuk harbour. This is a very small little harbour with a very narrow entrance. It was packed with boats, some swinging at anchor and others with a line to the shore. We dug in our anchor and proceeded into the small tourist enclave. During dinner back on the boat, just after we'd finished the first course, the anchor suddenly gave way. We were being blown down onto another moored boat at a great rate. Luckily, the keys were in the ignition, and we could get the boat moving and avoiding the dangerous obstacles all around.

Entrance to Bodrum harbour

As the night darkened, we kept desperately trying to reset the anchor. The wind had piped up to about 25 knots, and we were being blown downwind too fast to allow the anchor to penetrate the thick weed. While trying to lay the anchor, we had to pirouette the boat around numerous closely packed obstacles (other large and expensive boats), all the while the dinghy is still standing upright on the deck. We left the harbour once, but conditions were not very nice outside. It was blowing hard and there was a 2-3m swell running. Re-entering the harbour, we again tried to set the anchor numerous times, but failed. The tiny dock was not an option in 25 knot crosswinds, so there was no option, but head out to sea.

Luckily, there was a marina only 3-4 nm down the coast, so we could enter Turgetries around 2230 and were allowed to tie up to their fuel dock.

Next day, we headed off down to Bodrum, where there were no berths due to demand from Race week. After circling for 2 hours waiting to refuel, we were finally offered a berth (at an outrageous price of 80 Euro's). Well, it solved some problems for our guests who kindly paid for a few nights there. We said good-bye to David and Carolene in Bodrum, they were planning to travel further in France and the UK.

Interesting hybrid cruise/sailing ship

Standard cruise ship, boy what it does to the neighbourhood.

Standing off from Bodrum.

So after about 10 days of hectic sailing and touristing with David and Carolene, Megan and I felt like we needed a break. We headed east up the Gorkova Korfesi from Bodrum to English Harbour. It is so named as it held a secret SAS commando naval base during World War II. 

Small restaurant/market/pier at English Harbour

A view of the tranquil anchorage

We'd had so much wind and strenuous sailing over the previous days that it was great to tie up to a secure pier in a very sheltered and safe anchorage, and just hang out for a few days. We caught up with boat maintenance items and had a chance just to read and swim.  More importantly, it gave us time to reflect on our life aboard Pavlov.

I think both Megan and I are finding some things quite difficult with life on board. One thing is the constant awareness that 'Shit happens' any old time it likes. Anchors drag, things break down, wind blows..... We are constantly on guard for these events, and that can be quite stressful. We also spend a LOT of time fixing things up.

Another consideration is the nature of transitory living. We meet interesting people, but then leave them. We can't see people that we'd like to keep seeing. Life and travel has its own rhythm, and its hard to coincide with others. We travelled for a while with Petra and Marco, some German friends that we met, and that was great. But then our paths diverged.... does that mean the end of that relationship? We don't feel like being perpetual tourists. How many piles of ancient rock can you see and still stay interested? We're both finding a need for more meaning in our life post-retirement. Megan particularly is missing her children. So we must see where this all leads.

Pavlov at English Harbour

We are talking about taking yearly contracts at marina's so that we have a sense of a 'base' for our lives, at least for that year. We are thinking of taking the boat through the canals of France and Germany so that we have to face less rigours in sailing and to see more of inland Europe. We might be tempted to sell the boat in the UK. We think it might take a year to sell the boat, so settling down in the UK for a year would be no great hardship. 

Who knows what our second year might bring? It will also be interesting to reflect on our experience of living back in Australia (we are visiting for 3 months for Sophie's and Ayla's weddings) after our life on the boat.

Let's roll those dice again, Doc!