Pavlov gets new wings

Most people may not realize that boats actually fly through the water. Being a long time glider and general aviation pilot, I am acutely aware that boat sails are exactly like wings, they generate lift to enable a boat to sail to windward.

Here's a photo of a sister ship of a glider I used to own in the USA, a german ASW 19. I just loved the purity of function defining form, the sheer sensuousness of the lines, the delicate thin wings curving upwards as they responded to thermal lift.

ASW19's in cruise formation

A yacht's sails should have the same purity of form. Pavlov's sails are well used, yellowed with age and sea miles. They are the original sails and are over 20 years old. We thought it was time Pavlov was given the gift of new wings, so that she too could fly to windward.

We enlisted the help of UK sails to design a new wardrobe of sails for Pavlov. We wanted a new mainsail, a new yankee and a new furling staysail. Pavlov is a true cutter, which means that she was designed to fly two head-sails, a yankee and a staysail.

Pavlov's new tri-radial yankee

Here's a computer generated design of Pavlov's new yankee. This computer file will drive the cutters that cut the cruise laminate fabric to form the sail panels. This style of panels is called a tri-radial cut, the panels are lined up with the lines of force carried by the sail. The new staysail will be a smaller, cross cut design and mounted on a new furler. This will allow us to reef both the yankee and the staysail from the cockpit. Being able to put the sails away or to reef them down without a trip to the fore-deck, and to not have to deal with hanking on and storing heavy sails in high winds will be a huge advantage.

The new mainsail will be full-battened and have Rutgerson cars up the luff. These reduce the friction of the sail attachment slugs in the mast track. It will make it easier to drop the sail in a hurry and reduce the effort needed to raise the sail. We have also ordered a new lazy bag. This catches the sail when it falls so that it it neatly flaked on top of the boom.

All of these features will make sail handling easier and quicker. We both felt that these will make sailing the boat much safer. Being able to reef the main quickly, and to avoid having to go onto the fore-deck in high seas will make sailing in strong conditions much safer. As our experience grows, we're finding that Pavlov can handle stronger weather very well. Sailing from Serce to Fethiye in 25 knot winds demonstrated her good sea manners. For once, the wind was in the correct quarter, so we averaged about 7 knots home, even hitting 8 knots surfing down some of the swells. We did break a few battens from an involuntary gybe. We had a preventer rigged so the boom was fine, but the twisting off main broke 3 battens. Lucky we've a new sail ordered!

While all this work is going on, we've been making short forays into Turkey. The following photo's are from Serce, a very welcome hidden anchorage that provided a safe haven for an overnight stop as we travelled from Orhaniye to Fethiye. The winds were really up in the Rhodes channel, but after we sneaked into this little hidden bay, they dropped right off, and we found ourselves in a very tranquil anchorage, whilst outside the heavens howled.

Megs and Pav at Serce anchorage, a respite from the storms.

The anchorage was totally sheltered from quite heavy weather outside.

Looking out to the main bay.

Pavlov's mast intruding on the tranquil scene

When we settled back into Fethiye, we decided to break up boat maintenance tasks with local side trips. We made a trip to Kayakoy, a Greek village abandoned in 1923 after the Lausagne Treaty when Turkey deported many individuals of Greek descent back to Greece. The village was a sad and desolate place, just left abandoned. Megan is writing a more extensive piece on the history of this place.

Kayakoy ruins

Abandoned Greek Orthodox church

We also tried to take the dolmus (a local mini-bus) up to the ski-fields near Fethiye. We got to a village called Seki, but there was no available transport to the ski-fields themselves.

Snow capped mountains outside of Seki

Village square in Seki

So we spent a quiet few hours exploring the non-existent delights of Seki while waiting for the bus to take us back to Fethiye, a 2 hour trip. A circumcision ceremony watched over by a brooding Attaturk helped pass the time.

Circumcision ceremony

Quess who?

Ramshackle house in Seki

So in between the endless boat maintenance tasks (Its all about the boat, Steve....), we've been making short trips by local bus. To break up the patten, we decided to spread our wings a little. Pavlov should not get all the gifts, so we bought tickets to Rome, and will spend 10 days in the city in a week or so. Next blog should be rather italianate in flavour.

Tough life, isn't it!

Kayakoy- the ghost village near Fethiye

View of the village from the bottom of the hill

After our return from Orhaniye we decided to become tourists again. There is still so much to see
around Fethiye. One place I had wanted to visit is Kayakoy- village of stone. It is the village which
is the backdrop to the novel "Birds without Wings" by  Louis de Bernieres.

After WW1 Greece expected to receive territory as the result of the break up of the Ottoman Empire.
Britain had negotiated this agreement with the Greeks during the war, but once the war ended all such agreements were broken. The collapse of the Ottomans and the rise of Ataturk and the new nation of Turkey meant that Greek ambitions in the region were to be fought. A war between Greece and Turkey was fought and in 1923 at the Treaty of Lausanne a peace was brokered.


The relationship between the Greeks and the Turks has been stormy. Cyprus is a good example. The Greek /speaking or Greek orthodox people had lived in Asia Minor for generations. Greek speaking people had settled this coast in ancient times. So a Greek presence has existed here for thousands of years.
When you read information at the site of Kayakoy here and why it happened, it is hard to distill the truth. It is confronting to imagine the impact of agreements made by politicians on the ordinary people.

The impact of forced repatriation of Greek orthodox people back to Greece must have been

horrendous. The Greeks refer to this as the "Catastrophe". In Turkish literature and other sources it is recorded that the governments of Greece and Turkey agreed to this movement of people- moslems back to Turkey, Greek orthodox back to Greece.  Some documents even try to limit the numbers affected. One source says 180,000 Greeks and over 300,000 moslems. Another says 1.5million Greeks were forced to leave their homes in Turkey. It was suggested that the majority were forced to leave before the treaty was made. I found shards of china in homes. Were these the remains of a families dinner set lost in their forced removal?
 At Kayakoy a local historian has written on a notice that no physical force was used to force the people to leave yet Turkish people would not live there because they feared that the Greeks had
poisoned the wells. How does this make sense?  Was this more anti Greek propaganda or did the Greeks have good reason to want to make the perpetrators of their removal from their homes suffer?
Again trying to find the truth is difficult.

I have read about atrocities in the Greek -Turkish war on both sides.  It seems that the Turkish source would have you believe the action was not based on race but religion. What does this really mean?

In 1932 the Ataturk led government passed laws which restricted the professions or work that Greek citizens in Turkey could engage in. Some Greeks had been allowed to stay in Istanbul after 1923. They were barred from from a series of 30 trades and professions from tailor to carpenter to medicine, law and real estate.

In 1955 the Istanbul Pogrom occurred leading to many Greeks leaving Turkey. So surely the forced removal of Greeks from Turkey in 1923 was targeting them as Greek- as the evidence of anti Greek racism in latter years would attest.


Kayakoy is famous because a whole village was forced to leave Turkey and the buildings were just left to decay. 

You can see in the photos, houses , shops , streets, churches and chapels; a 
ghost town or as the name suggests, a village of stone.  I was amazed at how large it was; rows and rows of houses covering the whole hill side. 

My friend in Australia Sophie told me that her family had been forced to leave Turkey after WW1,  part of the"catastrophe". Her grandmother's experiences of this forced removal were horrific.  It is no wonder that forgiveness has been hard if not impossible for many Greeks.  In both countries different stories are told to explain or justify what happened in Turkey at this time

Now I have another research project: to find out what really happened in villages like Kayakoy and why it happened.