Thursday, 16 June 2016

Pumice in Pompeii

Salerno proved to be an ideal place to leave the boat for side trips, something we Pavlovians love to do to momentarily absent ourselves from our life on the sea. This trip was to Pompeii, like an obligatory trip to Mecca for Megan who has taught this story for years. We'd been bragging to our travelling cohorts, John and M2, that we were 'post-obligatory' and that we no longer felt that we 'had to see it all'. Well, in this case we were wrong, and I'm glad we were, as Pompeii was outstanding.


Porto Marino entrance to Pompeii


Basilica, centre for justice

Sculpture by Polish artist Mitoraj





The portico where the judges sat to hear claims.

We've seen a lot of ancient Greek and Roman sites by now. Ephesus and Pamucali gave wonderful impressions of ancient towns, but Pompeii was an entire city. It reflected a different scale of community life than the smaller sites. I came away with an impression of a complex and highly organised society, with much of today's amenities. We saw fast food shops with built in bain-marie's, laundromats, public lavatories, beautiful and finely made mosaics, streets with guttering and stepping stones to cross when the streets were awash. A sophisticated city not so unlike today's towns.



Torso by Mitoraj



Blue Ajax



Classicism writ large


An added plus for me were the incredible sculptures by the Polish artist, Mitoraj. These sculptures echoed classical forms, focussing mainly on torsos and busts. However, there are unusual post-modernist twists with juxtapositions and truncations that echoed powerfully in this most classical of settings.



Angelic face for genitalia

What a location for such iconic works



More angelic than one could say ...  



Something so organic about these decaying bronzes



There were 30 sculptures in all



Captures something of Grecian ideals



Megan soaking it all in .... 

The sense of a city frozen in time was powerfully captured by the plaster cast technique pioneered by the archeologist, Fiorelli. When workers reported strange abscesses in the excavated tuffa, he thought to fill the voids with plaster. These resulted in perfect moulds of the now-decomposed bodies that had occupied the space.


Fiorello's infant



A crouching man ....


Amazing capture of a 3D image from that age ...



... shielding her face from the burning ashes


Features of social life in Pompeii stood out, I loved the image of the fast food joints and the laundromat. The fresco's and painted decorations were fascinating, and of course, we couldn't go without the usual roman dick joke carved into stone.


Take away fast food joint, the holes are warming clay pots under the counter.



Stepping stones across the streets when flooding


Exceptionally fine mosaics, Alexander vs Darius from the Faun House


Portico looking through to internal garden 


Wall decoration


Fresco painted onto a wall


Room decoration


Collector for rainwater inside main foyer of house


Advertising signage?



The larger villa's, like the Faun House which housed the famous Alexander mosaic, were impressive in their size and grandeur.  It was interesting to see the original art work from these houses on a subsequent visit to the Archeological Museum in Napoli. The names of the houses came from a random feature in the house, the Faun house is so called because of the small statue of a faun satyr in the water feature.



The Faun, eponymous with the Faun House



A cute small amphitheatre



More of the amphitheatre


A little street phallus, crying out to be stepped on!



Bathing room 



Well engineered streets with side pavements and guttering



The admiral has finally had her fill.

Another great day out adventuring in the ancient world, we wearied our way back to Pavlov, patiently bobbing at anchor, awaiting our return. Always a welcome sight to see that she's where we left her!!


Pavlov at anchor in Salerno Bay







Wednesday, 15 June 2016

Not so scary Scario

We left you, dear readers, in the smoking ruins of Stromboli in the Aeolian islands off the west Italian coast. As a follow up, we thought we'd take you to a truely non-scary place, Scario. So hold onto your hats as we slide up the Italian coast.


Serene conditions closing the Italian coast


Pavlov on the dock at Scario


Vibo Valentia was the first port of call, with the smoking Stromboli slipping below the horizon. We've managed to find sheltered anchoring spots in the lee of breakwaters built out from this otherwise not-anchoring-friendly coast. Such was the case at Vibo Valentia and Cetraro, our next port of call. We've welcomed this as the marina's along this stretch of coast are becoming very expensive, and the breakwater provides some much needed respite from the generally rolly conditions in the Tyrrhenian Sea.


Attractive port of Scario


There was a Ferrari club meeting, this was one attending car.


Photogenic hills in the distance


Scary port??


Another 30nm hop took us to the gorgeous port of Acciaroli. Again, we were able to anchor in the shelter of the breakwater, after bunkering at the fuel dock.



Church and watchtower at Acciaroli

Acciaroli street scape


Munchkins on passiagata.


Guaranteed to scare small children


Tradition gaff rigged skiff off Salerno.

From Acciaroli, we punched up to Salerno, just south of the Bay of Naples. This was to prove a good home and base for travelling the Amalfi coast, and we were able to anchor off the main promenade, right in the middle of this sizeable town.



Salerno at night 



Salerno, with the fort at the top of the hill



Seafox next to us in the anchorage

Salerno made a great base to explore from, the first trip was a ferry ride to Positano, then back to Amalfi. These are both pretty towns perched on the steep hillsides, but they have been totally 'husked' by the incessant flow of tourists who commandeer the soul of these towns.



Dawn off Salerno


Italian style 


Amalfi coast


Town of Amalfi


Coming into Positano


Positano town


Bow first docking at Positano

We strolled the town of Positano with John and Meagen. The charm of the town is undeniable, but I feel a sense of shame in being a part of the 'husking force' that devoids these towns of real life. The high prices, the grockle and pap sold to tourists, and the hustle-bustle of tourists repels me with vigor. Both Megan and I have seen enough 'tourist spots' now, so we try to avidly avoid them, and instead seek the common-place and ordinary.... far more interesting in our minds.



John with gardenias. 


Megan on the promenade


One more shrine, in case God forgets.


Artist's impression of Positano


Behind the town 


Steep sites



Waiting for the next john



Houses flowing to the sea 



Bougainvillea's abound



View from above the town



We caught a bus back to Amalfi from Positano. Every story you read about this terrifyingly narrow, steep, twisted and tortured road is true. If buses meet, they must back up sometimes for 50 metres, to find a spot just wide enough for the two to pass. Its every driver's foreign driving nightmare. Even riding the bus was enough of an ordeal. Amalfi is like a clone of Positano, we didn't hang around long


Amalfi main square




Main church in Amalfi

We spent 5 days in Salerno in all, including time for a dentist trip to repair yet another broken tooth. We loved this town for its utility, and visited Pompeii by local bus from Salerno. But that is another story!

Ciao for now.