Northern Sarde

After the heavily touristed Maddalena's, we were fancying some solitude, and so headed along the northern coast of Sardinia.

Windsurfers and wind in Liscia 

At the most north-western tip of Sardina there is an island, Asinara, which is a declared national park. The island has served as a penal colony back in the 1885, when all the locals were obliged to move to the mainland (and founded the village of Stintino), and then as a POW camp during the first world war. Most recently, it was refurbished as a maximum security prison for Mafioso and terrorists. The prison closed in 1997, and the island has been largely uninhabited since then.

Cale Reale on Asinara.

Pavlov at anchor

Jetty leading to the prison complex

Pavlov at anchor

Asinara means Donkey, and there were many wild donkeys inhabiting the island.

Megan befriending a local

Slowly, slowly, catchee donkey 

Uninhabited town of Cale Reale

Having reached the most westerly point of Sardinia, we headed back along the coast, stopping at the charming towns of Stintino and Castelsardo. Stintino was built to house the refugee's from the island of Asinara, when the Italian King Umberto established the island as a lazaretto, a quarantine station for maritime travellers. We were able to anchor just outside the main port.

Bay outside Stintino

More windy streets

Top of the old town hill

Most of Stintino old town is built up this hill

Castlesardo on the other hand, was not founded by refugees, but by the Genoese. The Doria family of Genoa built their castle here, and the town that formed around it was originally called Castlegenovese. Castlesardo was an stunning town with one of the most pleasant and affordable marina's we've ever seen. We caught the bus from the marina up to the top of the castle, and enjoyed a leisurely stroll back to the marina.

Castlesardo marina from the old town hill

Medieval town of Castlesardo

The town has grown around the castle at its summit

Crystal clear waters at Castelsardo beach

We treated ourselves to lunch at a bustling restaurant

Town flavour 

Medieval clock tower

Watchtower at marina entrance

We sailed back to Cape Tessa to complete our Sardinian journey. Now we just need to bide our time to find a good weather window to cross the feared Bouche Bonifaccio, the windiest straits in the entire Mediterranean.

PAVLOV is for SALE

After 5 years in the Mediterranean and sailing over 8,000 nautical miles, Megan and I have decided that we need to return to Australia to build a new house, and take up grand-parent duties. Accordingly, PAVLOV, our beloved Bowman 40, is now up for sale. We will be listing her with Ancasta, a south of France broker, in November. However, if you might be interested in purchasing Pavlov and continuing on your own voyage of discovery, please email me on steve.garlick99@gmail.com. Prior to listing with the broker, the price will be 8% cheaper, reflecting the savings on the brokerage fee.

Pavlov trucking in her element

Pavlov is being sold fully prepared to continue on her journey. This boat has been lovingly outfitted and maintained, and has faithfully served as our home for the last 5 years. She is a real ocean thoroughbred and will keep its owners safe in any sea-state. She has looked after us wonderfully.

I will send details of price and inventory on request.

The Maddalena's

With our hosting duties over and our guests returned to the safety of terra firma at Palau, we headed off into the Maddalena's, a group of islands designated as a national park and wildlife reserve. This archipelago of islands lie at the north-eastern corner of Sardina, just a few miles off the coast, and are renown for their crystal clear turquoise and blue coloured waters, weathered naturalistic rock formations and sandy coves.

A water-ski run in Liscia di Vacca

A majestic J-boat off the Costa Smerelda

A small cruiser for Porto Cervo in the Costa' Smerelda

We met up with our great Aussie mates John and Meagan on Sea Fox, and enjoyed swanning around in some beautiful anchorages, making lots of veranda music. Here's our version of an Aussie classic, played catamaran style, thanks to Meagan's (M2) intrepid video making.

our version of Reckless

Some of the delightful coastal architecture in Sardinia

Between Cape Ferro and Ile delle Bisce on the top of Sardinia, there is a narrow passageway. We were heading down this fairway, perhaps 0.5 nm wide, when a fleet of Open 60 style one-design racing boats, all internationally flagged, came charging down the middle. Pavlov was caught up in an intense tacking duel, with these massive and incredibly fast boats tacking like kick-boxers all around us. It was an exciting moment.

International one-class racing in the Maddalena's

A tacking duel happening all around us.

At anchor in Porto Palma on Il. Caprera

We'd travelled all the way from the southern tip of Sicily (Porto Palo) to the northern tip of Sardinia with John and Meagan from Seafox. We've not often sailed in convey, but this has been a great experience. We never seemed to get in each other's way, yet just turned up together in multiple anchorages, shared great meals, great music and great company. Thanks for the journey, you old sea dogs, the pavlova's miss you!

Our last shared anchorage with Seafox, in Isole Buddelli

After our sad farewells, we headed off to explore the more lonely regions of northern Sardinia. Catch you next time.

About in Olbia

Our guests arrived, so it was time to bunker the boat and make the crossing to Sardinia. We picked our weather window, but nevertheless, it was a hard crossing. 28 hours with the wind peaking at about 25 knots. We managed to sail most of the night, dropping a bit lower to keep the boat moving. The early morning hours were the hardest, as we had to reef down and the wind came right on the nose. After a day recovering in Brandinchi, we headed into the major Sardinian port of Olbia.

Enroute to Olbia

Our anchorage in Brandinchi

Lighthouse coming into Olbia

Meagan and Tony

Our guest, Julia

Olbia was a great entry port for Sardinia with that most rare of conveniences, a free town quay. We tied up at this dock, well sheltered from the blustery Sardinian winds. We were surprised that we were allowed to stay on the dock after learning from the Coast  Guardia that Symphony was docking next to us. Symphony is a 101m super yacht owned by the Bernard Arnault, director of Lois Vuitton and Europe's wealthiest person. Symphony featured a glass bottomed contra-flow pool with waterfall, certified for helicopter operations, and valued at E150,000,000.

Symphony docking next to us

Pavlov's neighbourhood just improved

Olbia proved to be a great base for Pavlov. The dock was secure enough that we hired a car for two days for a trip around Sardinia.

Main square in Porto Olbia

Yet another religious procession

Taking the virgin for a walk again.

We drove to first to Dogali, which is a town featuring numerous handworked crafts. We couldn't resist the local leatherwork and bought a number of bags. We passed by an impressive mountain with a large river/lake system  'Largo del Cedrino', on the way to Nuero, where we had a memorable traditional Sardinian meal and spent the night. Next day, it was on to Alghero on the western coast, then back to Olbia.

Exploring Sardinia with Julia and Tony

Largo del Cendrino

Artwork of traditional Sard attire

Gourd handicrafts in Dogali

Small cute villages

Main promenade of Nuero

Old fortifications at Alghero

A great meal at Monteblu Ristorantia in Nuero

Cafe societies rule!

Back to Olbia, we prepped the boat to head off to the Costa Smeralda, playground of the rich and famous. After rubbing shoulders with Symphony, we felt prepared for a tour of duty as paparazzi. Arrivederci!

Coastal tower in Alghero

Alghero coast line

Who's chasing who?