Monday, 9 December 2013

The Wedding

Well, the wedding came and went. It was a splendid event, the bride looked ephemerally beautiful, the groom triumphant, and Megan glowed like an iridescent peacock.

A demure bride entering the church


A splendid groom, Chris


Replete with a passel of besties

Even I scrubbed up for the occasion 

Sophie T and Megan, looking like birds of paradise
Family were in abundance, so it was great to be at a gathering of our diverse and geographically spread clan.

Simon and kinder, from WA.

A very handsome Michael, Megan's son.

A gaggle of young beauties.
Kathryn and her daughters, Lauren and Olivia

David, Sandy and Andrew
After family, we had a chance to catch up with many old Sydney friends.

Megan, Leslie and Anna
Megan and her friend, Carole
Our very dear friends, Ralf and Jacqueline
The ceremony was a simple and brief affair, held at St  Benedicts on Broadway. It was a lovely and small church, built in the 1840's,  one of the earliest Catholic churches in Sydney.
The bridal party ready to enter the church

Michael and Ralf

At the altar

Vows being exchanged 

Parents of the bride lighting the family candle

The homilies are spoken

Michael delivered an address

Parents of the bride

Signing the marriage certificate
And now you may kiss the bride!
Leaving the church

The wedding party leaves.
The bride outside
Some posed photos in the church.

The family

Parents of the bride and groom


The reception was held at Sydney Rowing Club, Drummoyne.


Outside the rowing club

Tanya and the minister

Sophie and Leah

Party on

Chris's family

Sophie T and Carole

The girls get down and dirty

Megan rocks out.






Sunday, 1 December 2013

Value Propositions

Megan and I have often mused about how our life at sea might change us. Would we become brave and intrepid, or terrified out of our wits? Would we sink or swim? Well, the answer may be partially in.  Our return to Sydney illustrated to us that we have been changed by our experiences of living on Pavlov. I call those changes 'value propositions', beliefs that structure and give relative values to the world around you.

Pyrmont Bridge, SHB in the background.

The first proposition is just about the value of things. Returning to Sydney illustrated just how aggressive a consumer society it has become. We visited a popular Sydney cafe 'The Grounds', where milkshakes were $8 and a simple breakfast over $20. This cafe was packed with people, the atmosphere was hustle-bustle, the waiters young and rude and the food was just ordinary. But it was a  'must visit' location, according to our hosts. The 'value' that was being sold here was fashionability, it was a trendy place to be, where the in-crowd could be found.


Glebe skyline
We found lots of examples of this, the Woolies supermarket where half the food was pre-prepared ready to eat, at incredible prices. The supermarket even contained its own hip cafe, with huge multimedia wall screen. Sydney was trendy, hip, full of its own self-importance. Its values were about images of success and achievement, of smart designer clothes and clearly, even smarter people.

Sydney harbour view
We felt alien in this environment. We have spent most of the last eighteen months living in quite simple Turkish and Greek villages, both urban and rural. There was very little that was fashionable or trendy. The value of things wasn't inflated by its social cache. I'm sure that I'm over-simplifying,  but Sydney just seems so much style over substance, image over reality.


Street mosaic.

Living as we do on a small pension, we have become quite frugal with money. We entertain people on the boat, we cook meals together or have them over for coffee. We say that we are now 'post-consumer', we spend what we have to buy what we need, not what we want. Substance rules over style, necessity over desirability. Our frugal post-consumer reality put us at odds with many Sydney friends that meet in cafes and socialise in places that could cost us our whole weekly allowance for food. We felt that we'd become 'poor cousins' in this environment. In Turkey, we'd never felt branded in this way by our spending profile.

Sydney pub in Erskinville
So, I'll summarise our first changed value proposition as adopting a post-consumerist lifestyle. The second domain wherein we noticed a change was around self-reliance. On the boat, we had to do everything. If the plumbing broke or a toilet blocked, I became the plumber. If the engine needed a new gearbox, Megan and I become qualified transmissions specialists. We repaired or replaced woodwork, electronics, fibreglass, stainless steel. We negotiated for visa extensions, dealing with armed port police and occasionally, smuggling ourselves into countries as illegal immigrants. We navigated fierce meltemi winds and storms, depending only on ourselves to make safe harbour. We dealt with anchors dragging and boat collisions and docking under extreme winds. We've learned to negotiate with crooked tradesmen and the not-so-honest sailing support structure in the Mediterranean.

Sophie's kitchen party (although not in the kitchen!).

This cemented something within us, a willingness to trust and rely totally on each other. But even more, a self-reliance and resilience, a knowledge that we can deal with anything that life throws at us. We've adopted a value proposition of self-reliance. We trust ourselves to cope. However, in Sydney, we are suddenly helpless. We have to rely on friends and acquaintances for the necessities of life. We need help to house and feed ourselves. We're not accustomed to depend in this way on others, it clashes with our current life-style. This has been difficult to negotiate. We feel so secure and independent ensconced within Pavlov. She is our strength and our armour, and we feel a little naked and insecure without her.


Sophie's kitchen party
The final value proposition that's been altered by our life on Pavlov is the need to confront the real. On a boat, you can't ignore a poorly set anchor. If you do, you might awake in the middle of the night in dire circumstances. You can't let maintenance slide, you might live (or not!) to regret it. Life is a little more black and white. As Megan say's, the anchor is either set or its not.

Renewed life for the old railway maintenance sheds.
So, its been fascinating to return to Sydney, and the many old and unfinished relationships that both Megan and I have here. We've also returned to 'family business', a wedding in family fractured by divorce, children affected by separation.

Megan's relatives, David and Carolene.
Our new found value proposition of 'confronting the real' may play out here as well. We'll see if this improves our family relationships and the bonds of friendship during that fraught period of family fragility, Christmas. We'll report back on that one as it all plays out.

Season's Greetings to all from the crew of Pavlov.

Saturday, 9 November 2013

Our daily routine

Living up 20ft has its challenges.



Adapting to life on land has been interesting. Pavlov is high and dry. This is the first challenge. No more that floating feeling. Now cats patrol our decks at night. The other night a little paw shadow was cast over the hatch above the galley. Luckily my concern about mozzies meant it was cat proof but the little muddy paws on deck also provide evidence of what I could have thought was a dreamy vision. Here is suspect 1. I think it was one of the three black cats, twins and mother cat.




Getting down to the land is also difficult. Every time I scale up or down our metal ladder I have to focus, one slip could be fatal. Plus when we first plugged into shore power Pavlov came alive. Literally. Fortunately we both felt the tell tale tingle before grabbing on to the stanchion as we hauled ourselves on board.  Now we are well grounded.

Our clothes/ lines washing line - an old umbrella .



Our trusty Bromptons are always on hand to get us into the village. Mud, rocks... The Bromptons double as mountain bikes luckily.



Our boat yard is soon to fill so our expansive views will diminish over the next few weeks.



Hauling objects on an off the boat was a problem to be solved. Fortunately Steve's pulley system for our tender has a dual purpose... Hauling up and down food, tools, the bikes, any thing we need on land or to return to the boat. 




We now have discovered the kitchen gets locked at night so no more evening trips to the fridge with food. After I had a bout of food poisoning I think we will use less  items which need refrigeration. 

The joys of land!




A divided life

Our life is curiously compartmentalised at the moment, we live in two separate sphere's.

The boundary line
Up the ladder, we live in a confused space. It is at once a workshop, living room, workplace, kitchen, and bedroom. We live with moving chaos. We eat our cereal mixed with sawdust from the headliner renovations. We pull random tools from beneath our buttocks to sit down. We are careful that the cup we are about to drink from does not contain thinners from the varnish job.

Our afternoon ritual is to sit on the foredeck and have a sundowner while admiring the view. Occasionally, wealthy neighbours drop in! We watched a jet helicopter flit over to this mega-yacht moored over in the middle of the bay. Wonder who was on board?

A wealthy neighbour drops by!

Down the ladder, we are immersed in an industrialised landscape. We are living in a dusty or muddy (depending on the amount of rain that day) landscape filled with yachts and gulets in all states of repair. Heavey bulldozers drag gulets out on the hard, impossible balancing acts are accomplished with a few sticks and a prayer. (And there's always Inshallah if anything goes wrong!).

A local wedding, in the gravelled soccer field.

So we are always appreciative of chances to 'get off the boat'! We were invited to a wedding in Orhaniye. We managed to hitch there after we missed the bus, that had randomly decided to take a different route, even though we were waiting at the recommended bus stop.

Megan and Christina at the wedding.
We were invited by Hasan Yuksel, a shipwright we've spent a lot of time with in Orhaniye. The wedding was held at the local soccer field, the gravel (the field is not grassed) swept into a pile for the wedding.

Hasan Arbey
 Everyone (at least the whole village, plus as many as can travel from surrounding villages) is fed, then the band strikes up and the dancing begins.... and goes on for hours and hours!

Dancing around the goal posts

Dancers must have spectators!

Since we don't have easily available transport, we have to shop at the local markets. Both Megan and I love the markets, they are cheap and have wonderful fresh vegetables, fruit and local produce.

The local travelling supermarket.
We badly need to buy new clothes, life on the boat is hard on fabrics. In little over 16 months, every piece of clothing that I own is falling apart. However, the local clothes don't last long. Reclothing ourselves may be an Australian mission

The clothing stall


Megan samples the baklava at the Pastenasi

Our favourite, village bread.

The women sell all sorts of home-made produce

Exiting the market
After escaping for as long as possible, its time to head back to the battlefield. We ride our bikes back through the muddy roads, passing beached skeletons of boats being birthed or dying. Mounting our ladder, we're back in our insular little tree-house, next job being planned.

Only another week, and we'll be on the plane to Australia. What on earth will that be like? We have no idea.